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See discription on 
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CANDY-MAKING 
REVOLUTIONIZED 

CONFECTIONER Y FR OM 
VEGETABLES 



BY 

MARY ELIZABETH HALL 



ILLUSTRATED 



STURGIS & WALTON 

COMPANY 

1912 

All rights reserved 



<^'''' 

^■^ 



COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY 

PERRY MASON COMPANY 



COPYRIGHT, I912, BY 

STURGIS & WALTON COMPANY 



Set up and Electrotyped. Published, December, 1911 



(gCI.A33072i 



2»^ 



TO 

ONE ELIZABETH, 

AND ALL ELIZABETHS WHO LOVE PURE 
CANDY AND ITS MAKING 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

Introduction i 

Preface vi 

SECTION I 

I For the Novice 3 

II For the Candy-maker's Table ... 8 

III Thermometer 19 

IV Use of Steam 24 

V Crystallization 27 

VI Chocolate Coating 33 

VII Sugar 41 

SECTION II 

VIII Decorative Candies 

I From Potato Paste .... 52 

Green Leaves ..... 56 

II Violets 

Pop-com Violets .... 57 

Cocoanut Violets .... 58 

Violet Boutonniere .... 59 

III From Potato Fondant 

Uncooked Fondant .... 61 

Cooked Potato Fondant . . 62 

Modeled Candy 62 

Coloring 64 

White Daisy 66 

Yellov^ Daisy 69 

Calla Lily 69 

Red Apples ....... 70 



CHAPTER 



CONTENTS 

Single Roses 
Rose Buds 
New Potato 
Pea-Pod . 
Snow Ball 
Grapes . . 
Other Possibilities 



IX 



Potato Caramel 

Potato Caramel No. i 
Potato Caramel No. 2 
Potato Caramel No. 3 
Opera Caramel . . 
X Potato — Miscellaneous 

Mocha Walnuts . . 

Pecan Creams . . 
Raisin Creams 
Peppermint Chocolates 

Celtic Almonds . . 

Chocolate Bars . . 
Vegetable Cream 

XI Sweet Potato 

Sweet Potato Patties 
Sweet Potato Knots 
Sweet Potato Pastilles 

Candied Parsnips 
Parsnip Boutonniere 

Carrot Rings . . . 
Crystallized Carrot . 
Carrot Roll . . . 



XII Parsnip 



XIII Carrot 



CHAPTER 



XIV Bean 



XV Beet 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

"Gingers" 99 

Garden "Ginger" .... 99 
Variations lOl 

Candied Green Beans . . . I02 

Bean Tafify 103 

Nut Bean Taffy 104 

Frosted Beet Slice . . . .105 

Beet Puffs 106 

Beet Cubes with Variations . 107 
Crystallized Beets .... 108 

Spiced Beets 109 

Spiced Beet Bon-bons ... 109 



XVI 



Tomato 

Tomato Marslimallow . . .110 
Chocolate Marshmallow . .112 
Vegetable Nougatine . . .112 
Chocolate Nougatine . . .114 
Nut Bur 114 

XVII Cornlet 

Nut Cornlettes 118 

XVIII Onion Cold Tablets 120 

XIX Oriental Paste 123 

Seaweed 124 

XX Stuffed Fruits 

Dates for Candy 128 

Sparkling Dates 128 

Chocolate Covered Dates . . 129 
Date Brilliants 129 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

Rhubarb Marmalade . . . 129 

Sugared Dates 130 

Stuffed Dates 130 

Stuffed Prunes 130 

XXI Angelique 

Rings 132 

Orange Rings 133 

Angelique as a Plant . . . 133 

Preserved Green Angelique . 135 

Dried Angelique 135 

XXII For the Caterer 136 

XXIII For the Teacher 142 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Vegetable Candies Frontispiece ^ 

opposite page 

Fascinating to the Child ']2'^ 

Boxed Vegetable Candies 98^ 

Decorative and Edible 118 

Angelica Archangelica 132 '^ 

For the Caterer 138 '^ 



INTRODUCTION 

When Mary Elizabeth Hall first brought 
her discovery to my attention, I thought 
that it was indeed one that would revolu- 
tionize candy-making, both that of the 
amateur at home and of the manufacturer. 
And, in the months that have followed, to 
this belief has been added the conviction 
that this revolution is one very much worth 
while. Why so simple and obvious a dis- 
covery was not made long ago is a mystery 
to me; perhaps its very simplicity and ob- 
viousness is proof of its importance. 

Of cookery, candy-making is a branch 
which is entitled to more dignity than it 
ordinarily receives. Negatively and posi- 
tively, the importance of sweets to the child 
can hardly be over-estimated. If he con- 
sumes a quantity of impure confectionery, 
his digestion will be ruined for life; how 
much of the confectionery bought is rankly 
impure it is well for the mother's peace 
of mind that she does not know! On 
the other hand, if the child is not given 



ii INTRODUCTION 

sweets, he is deprived of a food element 
of the greatest value to his development. 
And for the adult, the value of pure candy 
is too obvious to warrant comment. 

Vegetable candy, to my mind, is ideal 
confectionery. Of its purity, there can be 
no doubt. Moreover, it furnishes the valu- 
able element of sugar so combined with 
nutritious vegetable bases that, because of 
the bulk, there is no temptation to overeat. 
This quality of the new confection would 
seem insurance against the evil effects of 
gluttony! Before an undue amount of 
sugar is consumed, the very mass of the 
vegetable base has satisfied the appetite. 

Many sorts of vegetable candy have un- 
usual keeping qualities; indeed, some kinds 
will retain their flavor and moisture for as 
long as a year. It is significant to note 
that almost all non-vegetable confections 
that can be successfully stored for any 
length of time contain artificial preserva- 
tives; vegetable candy, however, keeps, not 
because of the addition of alcohol or even 
benzoate of soda, but because of the ex- 
cellence of the processes themselves. 

Notwithstanding its advantages, vegeta- 



INTRODUCTION iii 

ble candy is no harder to make than is any 
other good candy. For success in any sort 
of cookery, much hard work is necessary; 
slipshod methods and intuition can not 
produce food that is up to standard. Of 
even greater force is this rule when ap- 
plied to the most delicate brand of cookery 
— the making of confectionery. Miss Hall 
has supplemented her major discovery by 
several other valuable discoveries — or 
" adaptations," as' she modestly styles them. 
Her use of crystallization, for instance, en- 
ables the amateur confectioner to secure 
results which were previously put of her 
reach. 

Aside from its virtues from the hygienic, 
dietetic and practical points of view, the 
new confectionery has much to commend it. 
By utilizing the common and cheap vegeta- 
bles of the home garden, it gives to the 
girls and women on the farm and in the 
village an opportunity that previously was 
not theirs. This discovery means that 
they can now make the finer sorts of candy, 
the fashioning of which was formerly out of 
the question to women who did not have 
at their command the resources of the spe- 



iv INTRODUCTION 

cialty stores of the large city — and plenty 
of money to spend in them. This enlarge- 
ment of the culinary horizon of these 
countless women is not without broad sig- 
nificance; the removal of their limitations 

— petty and otherwise, if you will — is nec- 
essary before we shall cease to tremble be- 
cause they who belong on the farm and in 
the village refuse to stay there. Once 
banish the discontent of the farm woman, 
and there is no rural -jroblem of conse- 
quence. And vegetable candy-making is 
not without sociological importance because 
it is a step — though, perhaps, a very short 
one, comparatively! — in that direction. 

More definite, however, is another field 
for speculation in connection with vegetable 
candy. It offers to the housewife, house- 
daughter, and to the teacher a new model- 
ing medium. That from a cheap and easily 
made base attractive objects may be made 

— and then eaten — surely is a recommen- 
dation of no slight moment. Miss Hall's 
discovery has placed within easy reach of 
persons of moderate means and skill a me- 
dium through which really beautiful ob- 
jects can be made in candy. For the first 



INTRODUCTION v 

time, the amateur candy-maker can prove 
for herself that candy-making is not only 
an art, but that it is one of the fine arts. 
Warren Dunham Foster. 



PREFACE 

The years of work in candy-making that 
have made possible this book, I now look 
back upon with a certain feeling of satis- 
faction. The satisfaction comes from the 
knowledge that because of the discovery 
that is here recorded, the candy of the 
future will be purer, more wholesome, more 
nourishing than that of the past has been. 
Even if the processes that are here set forth 
fail of the widest adoption, I have still the 
satisfaction of knowing that just so far as 
they are adopted will there be greater 
healthfulness of confectionery. 

Another reason for the satisfaction that 
I feel is my knowledge that my discovery 
has opened to the home candy-maker a 
whole new world. Previously many of the 
better sorts of confectionery — particularly 
of the decorative kinds — were out of her 
range, either because of the cost of the 
necessary ingredients or the difficulty of 
their purchase or handling; particularly un- 
der a heavy disadvantage has been the vil- 
vi 



PREFACE vii 

lage or country cook who has not had the 
service rendered by the specialty stores of 
the great cities. Now, however, with the 
ever present potato substituted for marzi- 
pan — hard to obtain at more a pound than 
potatoes cost a peck! — it is the girl or 
woman with her own garden who has the 
advantage. Moreover, decorative candies 
that formerly required more skill than 
most amateur confectioners possess can now 
be made by anyone who can model clay or 
use a cooky cutter. Mothers who formerly 
were all too often required to gratify their 
children's longing for candies that told a 
story — candies modeled or otherwise deco- 
rative — by giving them boughten confec- 
tionery that contained plaster of Paris, 
aniline dyes and other ingredients equally 
harmful, can now in their own kitchen from 
nourishing and harmless vegetables fashion 
sweets that are just as beguiling to childish 
eyes. 

Nor is this all. Children invariably have 
a craving for sweets that if allowed to run 
its course is almost sure to lead to indiges- 
tion and worse. On the other hand, if this 
craving is not satisfied, the children will be 



viii PREFACE 

deprived of a food of the utmost value — a 
food element, indeed, that it is indispensa- 
ble. Vegetable candy offers an ideal solu- 
tion of this difficulty. Sugar it of course 
contains, but the vegetable base supplies 
no small part of the bulk; consequently 
children may eat their fill of it and satisfy 
their natural longing for candy without 
having gorged themselves with sugar. 
Moreover, the vegetable base has virtues 
that are positive as well as negative; it it- 
self supplies valuable food elements and 
equally valuable vegetable salts. 

Many colors and flavors are made avail- 
able by this discovery. The use of beets, 
for instance, has added to the candy-mak- 
er's palette a very attractive new shade. 
Each vegetable contributes at least one 
new flavor. Novel as are candies made 
from vegetables, they must not be thought 
faddish. Caramels, marshmellows and bon- 
bons and all the rest are here; tastes that 
have already won favor are here, and many 
new ones as well. 

In places, perhaps, the directions that 
follow may seem over detailed. Invariably, 
however, I have tried to give information 



PREFACE IX 

about all the points that would come to 
the mind of the amateur confectioner. I 
have tried to tell the why as well as the 
what. Moreover, the processes at times 
may seem, perhaps, a bit over long. It 
should be noted, however, that vegetable 
candy-making is no more complicated, if as 
much so, as is the making of any other con- 
fectionery. Good candy invariably means 
effort, and intelligent painstaking effort at 
that. 

It has been with the home candy-maker 
in mind that I have written this book. Un- 
doubtedly, however, the discovery will ap- 
peal to the professional. I am glad, for 
the more vegetable candy is made, the less 
unhealthful confectionery there will be con- 
sumed. For the same reason, I hope, too, 
that women and girls seeking to make 
profitable their idle hours at home, may em- 
bark in a small way in the manufacture and 
sale of vegetable candy. 

My thanks are due to The Youth's Com- 
panion for its kind permission to reprint 
material that first appeared on its Girls' 
Page — a department that, together with 
Family Page and Boys* Page, has done 



X PREFACE 

much for better living throughout the na- 
tion. 

No doubt I have been garrulous concern- 
ing my own discovery, but I trust that the 
privilege of garrulity will be granted to the 
woman who has been a pioneer and who, 
after suffering the hardships that are always 
the lot of the pioneer, has, as she believes, 
opened up a whole new world in candy- 
making and a very good world at that! 

M. E. H. 
Boston, Mass., 

June 12, 1912. 



KEY TO FRONTISPIECE 

1 Green Leaf 

2 Violet 

3 Wild-Rose With Angelique Leaf 

4 Red Star From Potato Paste 

5 Jellies — made from green peas 

6 Carrot Ring 

7 Celtic Almond 

8 Mocha Walnut 

9 Pastille Of Sweet Potato 

10 Frosted Beet Slice 

11 Carrot Ring 

12 Beet Leaves 

13 Daisy— attached to macaroon with a crystal 

14 Pecan Cream 

15 Angelique Ring 

16 Raisin Cream 

17 Heart From Potato Paste 

18 Sweet Potato Knot 

19 Triple Filled Orange Rings 

20 Beet Puff 

21 Nut Bur 

22 Pea-Pod 

2^ Cocoanut Beet Square 

24 Red Apple 

25 Yellow Rose — on small round cake 

26 Snow Ball 



CANDY MAKING 
REVOLUTIONIZED 



SECTION ONE 



HELP FOR THE NOVICE 

Almost all of the difficulties of the novice 
in the art of candy-making come from lack 
of practice. Although it is a difficult 
branch of cookery, experience in its in- 
tricacies will overcome many of the handi- 
caps under which the beginner struggles. 
It should be carefully noted that these 
handicaps apply fully as much to the old- 
fashioned sort of candy-making as to the 
new. The fundamental processes are often 
the same. If the beginner in candy-making 
knows and will follow a few simple rules, 
the measure of success that greets her ef- 
forts will be largely increased. 

Be accurate. If the rule calls for one- 
quarter teaspoonful of a flavoring extract, 
measure that amount by a measuring-spoon ; 
do not take up any spoon that happens to be 
convenient, and pour in what seems to be 
about the right quantity. More and more 
cooks are working by rule and not by in- 
3 



4 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

tuition; but in candy-making the caution 
against inaccuracy is especially necessary, 
for the processes are delicate, and subtleties 
of flavor and of texture are more evident 
than in more substantial food. 

The weather is of more moment in candy- 
making than in plain cooking. Do not try 
to make candy on a muggy day ; the results 
probably will be unsatisfactory. But if 
forced to disregard this warning, attempt 
but little, act quickly, and remember that 
damp weather is the only excuse for the 
substitution of intuition for rule. Just why 
humidity and low barometric pressure play 
havoc with the work of the confectioner 
need not be discussed here. 

In making confectionery, cleanliness to 
the point of chemical purity is highly de- 
sirable. Many successful cooks believe 
that candy should be made in a pan that 
has never been used for anything else. That 
belief, perhaps, may be extreme, but the 
fact remains that one cannot be too care- 
ful in regard to the cleanliness of her uten- 
sils. And this necessity for cleanliness 
holds for any receptacle in which any in- 
gredient is placed. Note particularly that 



HELP FOR THE NOVICE s 

heating lard will leave a taint which will 
spoil the delicacy of flavor of candy made 
in the same dish. 

Very often it is desirable that liquids re- 
main hot after the actual cooking has been 
done. The ordinary stove gives too much 
heat for the purpose, and the confection- 
er's " working slab " — a device moder- 
ately heated by steam — is expensive. A 
cheap and effective substitute, however, is 
a humble soapstone. Use marbled cloth 
instead of waxed paper to dry candy upon. 
Then there will be no danger that little 
particles of the paper adhere to the candy. 
Candied fruit and similar confections, how- 
ever, should be drained on nickeled wire 
netting as explained in another chapter. 
Place the netting over a dish, and pour 
upon it the whole mass of fruit and syrup. 
By pouring all of it at once, the coating of 
syrup will be uniform: It will dry evenly, 
as the air will reach all sides alike. After 
most of the moisture has evaporated, the 
fruit will be ready to be rolled in sugar. 

Sprinkle a shallow dish with coarse 
sugar. Roll each piece of fruit in a sep- 
arate place in the dish, taking care that 



6 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

the sugar is absolutely dry when the fruit 
is placed in it. If the sugar is damp, it 
will mat so that the confection is " mussy " 
to the eye and unpleasant to the palate. 
Moreover, the scales of damp sugar will 
jar off, leaving a break in the complete 
covering which is necessary for the preser- 
vation of the fruit. One rotting piece will 
contaminate another, until the whole box- 
ful is unfit for use. If the sugar is prop- 
erly applied, candied fruit, well packed, 
will keep for several weeks without injury. 

Pack soft candies in layers separated by 
waxed papers backed by cardboard. Re- 
member that the best-made confections will 
be unappetizing when presented or served 
unattractively. 

In pulling taffies or other candies, corn 
starch may be put to good use. No def- 
inite rules can be given, because the tem- 
perature and the humidity of each pair of 
hands — to put the case euphemistically — 
are different. Each time the material is 
pulled, the candy-maker should dust her 
hands as lightly as possible with the corn- 
starch. A moderate amount of it worked 
into the mass will do no harm, but care 



HELP FOR THE NOVICE 7 

must be taken not to use so much that the 
candy becomes starchy. Moreover, a 
heavy coating of the starch does not pro- 
tect the hands any more than does a light 
dusting. 

While the candy is being pulled, it should 
be handled as little as possible. Let the 
candy's own weight over the hook do the 
real work. To avoid " bunchiness," the 
confectioner must keep the mass moving in 
uniform thickness — a difficult task, suc- 
cess in which comes only from practice. 



II 

FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 

For real success in candy-making the 
amateur needs a few small utensils similar 
to those that have long been used by con- 
fectioners. The advice which follows can 
be as well applied to old-fashioned candy 
making as to the new sort. 

A copper bonbon dipper, really nothing 
more than wire twisted so as to outline a 
spoon, will be found convenient for any sort 
of dipping likely to be attempted in the 
home kitchen. The wire dipper is a much 
more satisfactory tool than a silver fork, 
the implement usually recommended for 
this purpose. 

Get fourteen inches of copper wire — pre- 
ferably number eighteen — heavy enough 
to bear a few ounces of weight without 
bending, but soft enough to be shaped 
easily by the fingers. A quarter-pound 
spool should not cost over ten cents. Grasp 
the wire five inches from one end and bend 
8 



FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 9 

it double at that point. The double strand 
— which makes the handle — will then be 
five inches long, and the single four. Out of 
this single strand, beginning half an inch 
from the end of the doubled strand, form 
a loop three-quarters of an inch long. 
Twisting the wire round the forefinger or 
a small empty spool will make the loop. 
Wind the two inches of wire left free about 
the two parallel strands, carrying it up as 
far as it will reach. 

This skeleton spoon is excellent for dip- 
ping bonbons, fruits or nuts. To hold 
objects of different sizes, the soft copper 
wire may be bent easily ; and in this respect 
the home-made dippers are better than the 
nickeled ones on the market. For dipping 
creams into chocolate, this dipper is proba- 
bly the best device which is available for 
the amateur. 

Another help is the so-called rubber mat, 
useful for modeling wafers and centers. 
This is nothing more than a sheet of heavy 
rubber fabric, stamped so that molds are 
formed. Before using, place the mat in cold 
water, dry, and then pour the fondant into 
the depressions until they are entirely filled. 



10 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

When the fondant is dry enough to hold its 
form, the mat is turned upside down, and 
the wafers and centers easily freed. After 



-:i^:-i:-^:2>>, 









Rubber Mat 
Fig. I 
being washed in cold water and carefully 
dried, the mat is ready for use again. 

The advantage of the mat is that all the 
candies are of the same size and regular in 
shape, and that no material is wasted. For 
the girl who intends to get only one mat, the 
kind with round molds — " truncated cones," 
to be accurate — is the best to buy, because 
it may be used equally well for centers or 
wafers. See Fig. i above. 

The candy-maker who is prepared to 
spend more for her equipment may well buy 
several mats, each with molds of different 
shapes. Then she should reserve one shape 
for each flavoring or mixture, so that she 
can easily distinguish by sight different 



FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE ii 

kinds of creams after they are made. The 
mats are sold by weight, generally at the 
rate of a dollar and a half a pound. The 
one shown in Fig. i weighs eighteen ounces. 
Either to fill molds or to drop masses 
upon slabs or waxed paper in the old way, 




Dropping Funnel. 
Fig. 2 

the candy-maker will find a dropping funnel 
useful. This is a small tin cornucopia with 
a long handle. Whittle a clean stick so that 
one end of it will fit into the outlet of the 
funnel, and plug the hole from above. Fill 
the funnel with the mass to be dropped, and 
then raise the stick just long enough to al- 
low enough of the mass to run out to fill 
the mold — or if the old plan is followed, to 



12 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

form a wafer or cream of proper size. See 
Fig. 2, on the preceding page. 

Intelligent operation of the funnel makes 
the work more rapid and accurate, and the 
mass holds its heat longer, and is kept better 
mixed than if poured or spooned from a 
dish. Funnels especially made for this pur- 
pose cost from twenty-five cents to one 
dollar; but any tinsmith can easily make 
one out of an eight-inch piece of heavy tin, 
shaped so as to form a cornucopia, with the 
smaller opening not more than three- 
eighths of an inch in diameter, and attached 
to a handle at least twelve inches long. 

For heating mixtures, white enamel dishes 
are preferable to tin or aluminum. For 
mixing, wooden spoons are better than 
metal ones, because the mass which is be- 
ing stirred does not stick so readily. 
Wooden paddles are often better yet, for 
their flat surfaces do not retain masses so 
tenaciously. 

Perhaps the most useful tool of all is a 
nameless instrument which does duty for 
both knife and spoon, and in addition has 
virtues all its own. It is particularly valu- 
able for reaching the corners of pans. This 



FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 13 

tool is not on the general market, but can 
be made by most metal-workers — either 
tinsmiths or blacksmiths. A piece of spring 
steel, about ten inches long, rounded at the 
end, and curved as shown in Fig. 3, is 




Special Knife 
Fig. 3 

riveted into a wooden handle. Heavy tin 
may be substituted for the steel, if desired. 

A molasses-candy or taffy pull without 
a hook may be good fun, but it is hard on 
the candy as well as on the hands. A 
blacksmith can easily make the hook of 
round iron, about a half-inch in diameter 
and eighteen or twenty inches long. The 
rod should be bent until it forms roughly a 
letter J, with the tip about seven inches 
from the horizontal line. The top — the up- 
per part of the horizontal line of the J — 
should be pounded flat, and two holes bored 
for screws. 

Be sure to attach the hook to the wall 



14 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

firmly, and about level with the shoulders. 
Hooks may be purchased for about fifty 
cents apiece, but those made by the black- 
smith will do as well. Even with the 
hook, it is well to wear canvas gloves, so 
that the mass can be handled hotter, and in 
a more hygienic fashion than with bare 
hands. Canvas gloves are easily laundered 
— something which cannot be said of the 
expensive buckskin gloves recommended for 
this purpose. 

For use in " cutting in " fondant and other 
small masses it is well to buy a four inch 
wall paper knife — a tool which can be 
bought for from ten to twenty-five 
cents. Fondant should never be beaten, but 
instead it should be " cut in." This process 
is scraping up the whole mass, folding it 
over and cutting through with the knife. 
This motion is repeated, from each side of 
the pan, until the fondant becomes a ball 
which can be kneaded by the hand. 

Procure smooth iron bars, two fifteen 
inches long and two eighteen inches long, 
all three-eighths of an inch thick and two 
inches wide. Any blacksmith shop can fur- 
nish them at slight expense, or they may be 



FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 15 

purchased more cheaply from the confec- 
tioner's supply stores. The bars are to 
be placed — set on edge — in the form of a 
rectangle on a marble slab. Be sure that 
the bars are carefully smoothed, for other- 
wise they will be untidy and soon rust. By 
lapping the edges and moving the bars back 
and forth, a receptacle of any size desired 
can be made. After buttering slab and 
bars, pour the candy into the enclosure. 
When it has cooled, remove the bars, and 
with one sharp incision cut the candy clear 
across. Use a sharp knife of uniform thick- 
ness and width, preferably with a thin blade. 

It is also convenient to have two bars 
six inches long. They are useful in divid- 
ing a batch when different flavors or colors 
are used. The partitions will be useful for 
dividing the filling from the outside layers 
when a three-storied candy is to be made. 

The need for these bars comes from the 
fact that one should never cut candy in a 
pan. The attempt to do so will always re- 
sult in pieces with crumbling edges, as the 
knife has to be dragged through the candy 
instead of cutting down sharply, and as the 
sides of the pan allow no room for the ex- 



i6 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

pansion which the width of the knife will 
cause. Moreover, there is always waste in 
the corners and at the sides. 

The candy-maker should appreciate the 
palette knife. The flexibility of the blade 
is such that it can be put to many uses for 
which the ordinary knife is unfitted. For 
instance, with a palette knife it is possible 
to coax refractory substances from the cor- 
ners and edges of pans. Because of this 
flexibility, it is particularly useful in lifting 
modeled forms from a flat surface, as is ex- 
plained in Chapter VIII. 

To the confectioner, one of the most use- 
ful tools is a modeling stick. This 
small tool is of great value to the candy- 
maker. It can be grasped easily and its 
shape allows of its use at many angles that 
would be inconvenient or impossible for a 
less adaptable tool. The roundness of the 
blunt end serves many purposes; the 
straighter side is particularily useful for 
smoothing off work, and the inside curves 
lend themselves to a great number of proc- 
esses. 

Wire screens, often known as " wire bak- 
ing forms," are very useful for drying can- 



FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 17 

dies that have been sugared or for draining 
confections that need to be exposed to the 
air. Those that are oblong in shape are 
much more convenient than the round ones. 
The wires forming the screens cross at dis- 
tances of about one-sixteenth of an inch, 
making really a coarse sieve. The sides ex- 
tend up about one-half inch. The screens 
make excellently ventilated trays, but for 
candies that come from an ordinary crystal 
the mesh is too fine to allow proper drain- 
ing. Should the crystal be very thin, how- 
ever, the screen can be used for draining, 
provided the pieces are well separated and 
placed only one layer deep. 

Wire racks for the drying of candy are 
among the necessary equipment of the 
candy-maker. These may be had in vary- 
ing degrees of fineness, the wires forming 
squares of from three-eighths to three-quar- 
ters of an inch. Squares of one-half inch 
and under give the best support for confec- 
tions, however, and allow ample room for 
draining. If the candies are small or soft 
the large squares give insufficient support. 
The racks are without sides, the edges be- 
ing formed either by a heavy wire or a metal 



i8 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

binding. The supports are made by wires 
bent down at the ends and at the center. 
These racks are the same as the " cake cool- 
ers " of ordinary cookery. 

Another method of drying particularly 
useful for models and cream centers is a bed 
of corn starch. Do not use this plan with 
any confection the surface of which is wet 
from the application of pastes. 

As the basis for this process buy two or 
three packages of a cheap grade of corn 
starch. The corn starch can be kept ready 
for use by occasionally drying it out and 
sifting it. 

Spread the corn starch in a large shallow 
pan or tray thick enough to hold the weight 
of your candy. This gives a non-resisting 
surface which keeps the models in form and 
when dry the corn starch will easily brush 
off. 

By all odds the most valuable tool for 
the confectioner, amateur or professional, is 
the candy thermometer. Its use is so im- 
portant that the following chapter is de- 
voted to a discussion of it. 



Ill 

THE CANDY THERMOMETER 

For real success in candy-making, the 
home confectioner needs a candy ther- 
mometer. As is emphasized throughout 
the volume, accuracy is of the greatest im- 
portance in candy-making. Cooking must 
stop at just the right moment, or the candy 
is either harmed or actually spoiled. Un- 
til the last few years, for the amateur, the 
only tests to determine the completion of 
cooking have been known as " thread,'* 
"soft ball," "hard ball," "crack" and 
" hard crack." While the candy-maker has 
been struggling with these unsatisfactory 
tests, the candy has kept on cooking, per- 
haps until it has reached the next stage of 
temperature, changed texture, and so be- 
come unfit for the use for which it was in- 
tended. 

The professional confectioner has long 
been able, by the use of a thermometer, to 
determine just how hot his candy was and 
19 



20 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

to remove it from the heat at exactly the 
right moment. His thermometer, however, 
was not only too expensive for the amateur, 
but also too long to be used except in a 
large vat. There are now on the market, 
however, thermometers that the amateur 
confectioner or small manufacturer can use 
to advantage. Even when hardware deal- 
ers do not keep the thermometers in stock, 
they can — and will — order them from 
their jobbers. The instruments, of which 
there are several makes, are about nine 
inches long, and sell for from one dollar to 
two dollars and fifty cents. Most of these 
instruments register from about eighty de- 
grees to three hundred and eighty degrees 
Fahrenheit, although the range which in- 
terests candy-makers most is only from 
two hundred degrees to three hundred and 
twenty degrees. There are a few facts 
which the girl confectioner who uses a 
thermometer should keep in mind. 

Buy a thermometer which is guaranteed 
by its maker. See that the markings are 
so well defined that they can be read easily. 
Before use, the thermometer must be regu- 
lated to conform to the local altitude. 



THE CANDY THERMOMETER 21 

Place the thermometer in a kettle of water, 
heat, and let it boil for ten minutes. If the 
mercury marks two hundred and twelve de- 
grees, the thermometer is correct as it is, 
but if there is a variation of two degrees or 
more, allowance must be made. If water 
boils at two hundred and ten degrees, two 
degrees must be subtracted every time the 
thermometer is read. Then " soft ball " 
means two hundred and thirty-six degrees, 
not two hundred and thirty-eight degrees, 
as it would had the water boiled at the 
normal two hundred and twelve degrees, or 
two hundred and forty degrees, as it would 
had the water boiled at two hundred and 
fourteen degrees. Do not think that a 
variation of even two degrees is too slight 
to count; absolute accuracy is essential. 

For safety in transit, manufacturers often 
pinch together the case of the instrument 
so that the scale-piece can not work loose 
and become broken. A very little tinker- 
ing with the copper jacket, however, will be 
sufficient to free the scale-piece. This must 
be done, not only so that the thermometer 
can be cleaned readily, but so that, when 
the mixture to be tested is shallow, the 



22 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

dial can be pushed out in order that the 
bulb can be covered by the hot mass. Un- 
less the bulb is covered, the thermometer 
will not register correctly. 

Allow the thermometer to become hot 
gradually; do not thrust a cold instrument 
into boiling water. Do not remove the 
thermometer to read it, as it quickly 
changes. Read it with the eye on the 
level. Remember that mixtures which 
require stirring must be stirred below the 
thermometer as well as elsewhere. Be sure 
that the thermometer is clean. Each time 
after it has been used push the dial out of 
the copper case and wash both thoroughly. 
Do not neglect the back of the piece of 
metal to which the tube is attached. Be 
particularly careful after mixtures which 
contain milk or cream. This removable 
scale is a great convenience. 

The amateur candy-maker will be glad to 
know that sugar and water will not burn 
until all the moisture is evaporated, and 
that does not happen until three hundred 
and fifty degrees is reached. If, however, 
she is making an unusually small quantity, 
and the thermometer begins to climb above 
three hundred degrees — beware ! The 



THE CANDY THERMOMETER 23 

large quantity, however, will take care of 
itself because of the moisture it contains. 

Below is a table which will enable one to 
interpret the old stages in terms of degrees. 
Fortunately most candy thermometers have 
this information stamped upon their dials. 

310°— Hard Cracked 238°— Soft Ball 
290° — Cracked 230° — Thread 

254°— Hard Ball 

In the following pages it is assumed that 
the cook has a thermometer, li she has not, 
the degrees given may be translated into 
the old stages and the old tests used. 
Thus, if the directions read " cook to two 
hundred and thirty-eight degrees," the con- 
fectioner who has no thermometer will stop 
the cooking when a portion of the mass will 
"form a 'soft bair in cold water." If 
the directions read two hundred and thirty- 
six degrees, the " soft ball " must be softer; 
if two hundred and forty degrees, the " soft 
ball " not so soft. Thus, without the ther- 
mometer, the thermometer readings form a 
scale which makes easier the application of 
the old tests. Be it noted that the ther- 
mometer is no more necessary in vegetable 
candy-making than in the traditional sort. 



IV 

THE USE OF STEAM IN CANDY- 
MAKING. 

Steam may be used so that it will be of 
much help to amateur candy-makers, few 
of whom realize its possibilities. These 
possibilities, which range from actual cook- 
ing to the maintenance of the minimum of 
heat, may all be grouped under four proc- 
esses. 

,, First, to steam: Steaming is cooking by 
moist heat but not immersing the material 
in the water as in the boiling process. It 
should be followed to soften dried fruits or 
other ingredients, as often required by 
candy receipts. The best way is to place 
the materials upon a rack supported a 
couple of inches above the water in the 
cooking vessel, covering it tightly and 
placing it on the fire. The confined vapor 
will soon soften whatever is within the 
vessel. 

Second, the double boiler: The double 
24 



THE USE OF STEAM 25 

boiler is of particular value when protective 
cooking is desired. This method will hold 
all juices present but neither adds moisture 
nor dries out existing moisture as happens 
when the mixture is over a direct blaze. In 
this way, the materials can be heated with- 
out burning. It is of particular value with 
materials that need heat but need no fur- 
ther moisture — simply the development of 
that moisture which they already have. 

Third, a modification of the use of the 
double boiler by leaving off the cover: 
Thus the temperature is lowered and the 
actual cooking operation lengthened. Va- 
pors that may arise from the cooking mass 
are allowed to escape instead of being ab- 
sorbed. 

Fourth, the steam bath : The steam bath 
is obtained by placing the receptacle con- 
taining the mass over a smaller vessel con- 
taining boiling water. In this way, the 
steam is applied only to the bottom of the 
receptacle and its intensity may be varied. 
The lowest possible heat may be applied; 
temperatures far below the boiling point, 
or even the cooking point, are made pos- 
sible. The temperature of the upper dish is 



26 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

regulated by the distance from the direct 
heat of vessel containing the water. Al- 
ways start with boiling water so that the 
material treated will be affected only by the 
heat of the steam and not the direct heat 
which is bringing the water to the boiling 
point. This method is particularly valua- 
ble for keeping fondant and other masses 
moderately hot for dipping, or for melting 
chocolate or bon-bon creams, which should 
be melted at less than one hundred degrees. 



CRYSTALLIZATION 

One often wonders why the candy-eating 
public has the chocolate habit. The an- 
swer is simple. The manufacturer gener- 
ally ofifers the public chocolates. To one 
not conversant with candy-making, it is 
not so easy, however, to explain why the 
candy-maker offers the chocolates largely 
to the exclusion of other confections. To 
the initiated, however, the matter is simple 
indeed. Chocolate makes an air tight cov- 
ering that protects all sides alike. It 
makes it possible to keep candy not in- 
tended for immediate consumption and to 
ship it from one place to another without 
injury. Without it, the manufacturer 
would be in a bad way indeed. The con- 
fectioner, then, has fostered the chocolate 
habit because it is useful to him. 

Crystallization enables the candy-cook to 
put ordinary cream and sugar mixtures into 
good society dress and make them a pleas- 
27 



28 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

ure to the people who are not devoted to 
chocolate. Although the crystal coated 
confection may not stand some of the 
harder tests that the chocolate coated candy 
will withstand, it will be found sufficiently 
reliable to mark a very great advance in 
candy-making, particularly in home candy- 
making. And after all, the basic mixtures 
in home-made candy are not so very differ- 
ent from those in the candy of the pro- 
fessional manufacturer. The home candy- 
cook, the small maker and the professional 
manufacturer, who is, of course, far better 
equipped for crystallizing than either of the 
others, can, after a careful study of the 
different degrees of sugar crystallizing, 
make almost any candy as satisfactory in 
texture and appearance, and as easy to 
handle, as are the chocolate confections. 
A sufficient number of dippings in the crys- 
tal accomplishes the result. " One part 
water and three parts sugar," is the slogan 
of the crystallizer. This is the composi- 
tion of any crystal syrup. Although crys- 
tal syrups differ only in the temperature 
to which they are raised, their foundation 
is invariable. As long as the proportions 



CRYSTALLIZATION 29 

are kept the same, the quantities do not 
matter much — theoretically. Practically, 
however, one cupful of sugar and one-third 
of a cupful of water is about as much as 
can be handled effectively at one time. 
The success of the process lies in repeated 
dippings. With each immersion, the con- 
fection takes to itself a little more syrup; 
it thus acquires a heavier coating of the 
protective covering. The actual process is 
very simple. Each piece is separately 
dropped into the syrup and, after thorough 
immersion, is lifted out with a wire dipper, 
the surplus syrup allowed to run off, and 
placed for drying upon a wire screen. 

In the pages that follow, frequent use is 
made of crystallization. In each case, the 
degree to which the syrup is to be heated 
is given. 

It must be understood, be it noted, that 
this simple crystal dipping does not make 
the candy; it merely adds a protective and 
beautifying covering. The candy, already 
complete in a way, is dipped into the mix- 
ture of sugar and water. In the process 
that follows, however, the crystallization 
is of a different and more fundamental sort. 



30 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

In this second case, the crystallization is 
the method of making the candy com- 
pletely. 

For small candies, a novel modification 
of French hand crystallization is useful be- 
cause the process can be put to good use 
in the many sorts of candy-making. The 
candy-cook can well afford to make her- 
self master of it. She should know, how- 
ever, that the process is not so difficult as 
the description of it would indicate. Al- 
though the labor must be done on six suc- 
cessive days, the work requires but a very 
few moments except upon the first day. 

The result desired is a slow crystalliza- 
tion which thoroughly cooks the base 
so treated and preserves it perfectly. In 
addition, the process ensures an appearance 
attractive to the eye and a flavor equally 
attractive to the palate. 

A drying rack and a pan are the only 
utensils that are necessary. They should 
be of a size so that the rack will drop 
about one-half way into the pan and be 
upheld by the sloping sides. Note that the 
pan must be reserved for crystallization. 
If it is used for other purposes, it is likely 



CRYSTALLIZATION 31 

to absorb flavors that will work havoc with 
the delicate confectionery that is placed 
within it. 

Make a syrup by boiling one part of 
water and three parts of granulated sugar 
for ten minutes. Thereupon place in it the 
base to be treated by this process. That 
all the pieces may be very thoroughly 
separated, stir the mass carefully with a 
wooden paddle; it is absolutely necessary 
that all the surfaces of all of the mass come 
into direct contact with the hot syrup. All 
that is necessary, however, is that each 
piece be thoroughly immersed in the hot 
syrup ; in a surprisingly short space of time, 
the little pieces of confectionery will be 
heated through. 

Have the rack in position in the pan; 
over it, pour the hot mass — syrup and all. 
See that the candy is evenly distributed 
over the rack. Immediately place a board 
over the pan; a molding board will do 
very well indeed. If a tin cover were used 
in place of the wooden, the steam would 
condense and drop back on to the candy 
instead of being absorbed. After the pan 



32 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

has been left undisturbed for a full day, 
lift the rack out and pour the syrup into 
a suitable receptacle, cook to two hundred 
and twenty degrees and place in it again 
the candy. Take the crystal from the fire. 
Stir carefully, making sure that each piece 
is thoroughly immersed. Place the rack in 
the pan as directed above, and again pour 
over it the syrup with the candy in it. 
Note, however, that it is necessary that the 
wire netting be free from hardened par- 
ticles of the syrup. Cleanliness, almost to 
the point of chemical purity, is necessary. 
This process must be repeated four times 
more, but each time the mass should be 
cooked two degrees higher — in each case, 
twenty-four hours must elapse between 
each treatment. After the last operation, 
the candy should be allowed to dry on the 
racks. The result will be found well worth 
the time expended. 



VI 

CHOCOLATE COATING 

The ability to handle chocolate success- 
fully is a great assistance to the maker of 
vegetable candy. Although chocolate coat- 
ing is no more an essential in vegetable 
candy-making than in the old fashioned 
kind, there are very many times when the 
ability to use it effectively will be very 
useful to the confectioner. In either sort 
of candy-making, it is but a finish — as 
acceptable a finish to the one as to the 
other. Many people like the flavor of 
chocolate, and it is extremely serviceable 
because it furnishes a uniform covering 
for confections. Thus, when chocolate 
coated candies rub against one another in 
the box in which they are packed, their 
uniformity prevents their taking to them- 
selves strange flavors and colors. No 
candy-maker should scorn to make herself 
master of the intricacies of chocolate coat- 
ing. 

33 



34 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

The best instructor in chocolate coat- 
ing is a few pounds of chocolate, firm, 
well-shaped centers, an allowance of time 
and interest, plenty of good common sense 
and inclination to profit by the hints given 
below. With the knowledge that will be 
accumulated after a few trials, the candy- 
maker will soon be able to give to her 
candy the niceties of the professional prod- 
uct. The confectioner can well begin 
with nuts, or some other hard centers, for 
they are comparatively easy to handle. 
By handling them, she will soon gain the 
experience necessary to the successful 
finishing of other textures. From surpris- 
ingly little experimentation, she will ob- 
tain sufficient skill to handle successfully 
almost any center that will take the cover- 
ing. 

A thorough general knowledge of the 
behavior of chocolate and a clear under- 
standing of the behavior of the stock on 
hand are of more value than the methods 
of application of the coating. Since no two 
lots of chocolate are exactly the same, it 
is well to buy a fairly large supply at one 
time. In this way it is possible when han- 



CHOCOLATE COATING 35 

dling the first batch to learn the peculiari- 
ties of all the chocolate purchased and 
thereafter to handle the stock with assur- 
ance. For good results it is well to buy 
the regular " coating chocolate " which is 
sold by many grocery and specialty stores 
for just this purpose. If coating chocolate 
cannot be obtained, ordinary baking choco- 
late sweetened with confectioner's sugar 
can be substituted, but the substitution is 
to be avoided, for the finished work is sure 
to be inferior. 

In all sorts of candy-making, climatic 
conditions are of the utmost importance. 
In no other branch of cooking is the cook 
so dependent upon the weather. In 
muggy weather it is impossible to do good 
work; often, indeed, it is impossible to do 
any work at all. Therefore, it is of the ut- 
most importance that the confectioner 
yield respectful obedience to the humid- 
ity. 

This warning is of particular weight in 
connection with the handling of chocolate. 
Even if the day is only slightly rainy, or 
foggy, do not try to use chocolate. Even 
experts do not defy this law, but since 



36 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

they work under commercial conditions, 
they are generally able absolutely to con- 
trol the atmosphere. 

The room in which the actual operation 
of coating is conducted should be warm 
and dry. First, break into small pieces 
more chocolate than you will actually use 
in the coating. Put these lumps in a dish 
set over hot water and melt them slowly 
at a low temperature. To do this most 
effectually the water should previously 
have been boiled and the steam allowed 
to subside. Of course, the water must be 
very hot when the dish with the chocolate 
is placed over it. As the first piece melts, 
stir slowly from time to time. When the 
chocolate has melted, remove the dish from 
the heat and work all of the oil globules 
from the mass. This is accomplished not 
by hard or rapid motion, but by persever- 
ingly and persuasively smoothing the mass 
until it is sufficiently cool. These oil 
globules, be it noted, must be treated with 
the greatest respect. If they become over 
heated, they are likely to require much 
more work, even if they do not ruin th^ 
batch. 



CHOCOLATE COATING 37 

In studying this melting process, it is 
well to think of the action of heat upon 
butter. Suppose, for illustration, it is de- 
sired to cream a lump of cold butter. If 
much heat is applied to the butter the out- 
side immediately becomes running grease. 
It is possible that the cooler inside por- 
tion of the lump may be beaten into it, 
but the result will not be smooth. On the 
other hand, if the butter is allowed to 
soften gradually under the influence of 
moderate warmth, the whole mass would 
melt uniformly and could be beaten into 
the desired smoothness. 

The warning that water must not 
be allowed accidentally to enter the 
chocolate cannot be too often re- 
peated. 

Probably this is the surest test as to 
whether or not the chocolate is ready for 
the dipping: Drop a center into the mass 
so that it will be covered with the choco- 
late, remove the surplus either by pulling 
it over the edge of the dish, or by shaking, 
and let the drop fall squarely upon the 
sheet of special confectioner's glazed pa- 
per, or of oilcloth, or oiled paper, upon 



38 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

which it is to be cooled. Take care lest 
the piece slips when dropped. If it does 
slip, the base will have a thin projection 
that may break off and, even if it does not 
render the coating pervious, become un- 
sightly. If the candy-maker is careful and 
the coating has been worked sufficiently 
and has been allowed to become sufficiently 
cool, the base will form squarely and 
evenly and the chocolate immediately will 
become firm. In other words, the candies 
should begin to set at once without form- 
ing projecting bases as soon as they are 
dropped upon the sheet upon which they 
are to dry. 

Although chocolates should be covered 
in a warm room, they should be cooled as 
rapidly as possible. As soon as they are 
finished, they should be placed upon a 
small tray and removed to a cool place. 
The small tray is desirable since by its 
use the candies can be quickly transferred. 
In summer the tray should be placed in 
the refrigerator, but should not be allowed 
to remain for more than five minutes. If 
the chocolate coated confections are kept 
upon the ice for longer than that time, 



CHOCOLATE COATING 39 

they will soon be covered by a sweat that 
will ruin them. 

After the coated drops have become cold, 
the candy-maker should examine them 
carefully. If the bases have spread, she 
can assume that the chocolate was not 
cooled sufficiently or that the surplus was 
not effectively removed. If the coating is 
streaked or light colored, she will know 
that the chocolate was not worked suffi- 
ciently, or that the drops did not cool 
quickly enough after they were coated. If 
the candy becomes sticky when it is 
brought into a warm room, the verdict will 
be that the oil was not properly worked 
into the mass. 

In the chapters that follow, there are de- 
scribed many candies that offer desirable 
combinations with chocolate. In fact, the 
vegetable flavors are quite as adaptable to 
chocolate coating as are those that have 
already won popular attention and favor. 
Occasionally^ in the subsequent pages, 
mention is made of the fact that the con- 
fection described may well be covered with 
chocolate, but more often chocolate coat- 
ing is not suggested when it is possible. 



40 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

It is assumed, and no doubt safely as- 
sumed, that the candy-cook, from her ex- 
perience in the old-fashioned confection- 
ery, will know what candy can be coated, 
and what cannot be successfully coated. 



13S1Z0ITjJ07:I>I 07 



( ._l w\ Jl / - V.' J. J. >,y » 


-.l^v T ,.j. .'i ;^.' ,', : 


]l-:y^)~'j *:?.;.■'» 


'•in-^; ni <v:)iM '2--'^ 


'■lOy^ >^'?'b ~ 


'b^rrr ^s^^-rr f:?n^r[D 




YIIv 







Mb discus'sibti''of vcaridy or candy-ttiaking 
is complete witlioui: a statement concerning 
sugar — its kinds, value and proper use. 
Without doubt sugar is one of the most 
inaligned of foods. It does do damage when 
i^aten at the wrong time or to excess. From 
tfijs fact springs one of the great advantages 
fcf vegetable candy; in it the propottion of 
sligar to the bulk of the confection is $o re^- 
duced that the normal craving for sweets 
!^ satisfied without the tonsumptiori bf ' i 
'qtjantity of sugar that insures disastei*. "'•'- 
^"Experimentation long ago showed that 
sugar is the quickest source of energy '^ifl 
tfie whole list of ^available foods.^^ Ncf ot^er 
food approximates sugar - in o the - ea&e-^lft 
which it can be formed into 'actual bod^ 
energy. This fact has long been, appre- 
riatediDy athletes. One case in proof v^as 
that of two School btjys seventeen and riiiie- 
teert years of age, who had only two hourk 
41 



42 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

a day for two months for practice before 
rowing races in which both were entered. 
No change was made in their diet except 
they were permitted to eat as much sugar 
as they wished, sometimes as much as one- 
third of a pound a day. One of them, how- 
ever, did not begin to eat this excess sugar 
until the third week of his practicing, when 
he began to show the signs of over train- 
ing — loss of weight and no desire for either 
exercise or study. On the third day after 
beginning the use of the excess sugar these 
symptoms disappeared, and he became as 
vigorous as the other. Before the time for 
the race both youths were in the best of 
physical condition and were victorious over 
their antagonists who did not believe in the 
use of sugar. Subsequently, observation 
revealed no bad after effects. Similar in- 
stances could be indefinitely repeated. 

The fundamental fact — that sugar gives 
energy and gives it with great rapidity — 
has been made use of by army officers, par- 
ticularly German. 

It must be remembered, however, that 
sugar is purely an energy-producing food. 
It is necessary, then, that there be other 



SUGAR 43 

foods consumed with it in order to pre- 
serve a proper balance. These other foods, 
be it noted, are present in vegetable candy. 

The current idea that sugar is fattening is 
wholly wrong. It is not sugar that is fat- 
tening, but too much sugar. Only when 
sugar is consumed in a quantity in excess of 
that which can be taken care of by the hu- 
man commissary department, is it trans- 
formed into fat and stored as reserved ma- 
terial. 

The methods of refining sugar have been 
so perfected within the last few years that 
it is safe to say that few food substances in 
commercial use are so near to being chemi- 
cally pure as granulated sugars of good 
grade. No less an authority than Blythe 
says, " Loaf sugar is, as a rule, chemically 
pure. It is probably, indeed, the purest of 
all substances in commerce, and a large 
quantity may be burnt up without obtaining 
a trace of nitrogen and without leaving any 
residue. The only sugar that may be im- 
pure are the raw sugars." 

It is commonly known that sugar may 
come from any one of numberless sources. 
Sugar of milk is the first sugar with which 



44 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

members of the human race feecomc'aci 
quainted, but one which, of course, is of 
little account in candy^making-. The stigai? 
of fruits is in an easily accessible form and 
one which is of particular value when com- 
bined with cane sugar. Honey as stored by 
the honey bee ' formerly was highly prized 
for food value, but now that it is so ofteii 
stored by the factory without any activity 
oiiTthe part 30f th^ lioney bee, and* tlow that 
cane sugar is so very cheap, it is not Bd 
much in demand. For the sugar of candy- 
making, there are three sbiirefesi the- sugar 
cane, sugar beet and the stlgar maple. For* 
practical purposes, maple sugar may bfe left 
(klt^^ipf :the"disaussiOtt9'^n.ng S5 siuq ■■i\U::> 

Evei- since sugar has '^een' made cb" a 
commercial scale from beets tbere Ixa^ 
•vKraged a controversy :a^ to i thfe ' relative 
merits of beet sugar and cane sugar. As' 
far as the amateur candy-niaker is Gonf 
cerned^ however, ■ thei:^c<5:nt¥t>versy ig not of 
practical interest, for almost all of the sugar 
that is sold in small quantities is rriade from 
beets. Indeed, it is said that it is practically 
impossible for the housekeeper to obtain 
sugar made from cane. Moreover, not- 



jwithstanding the popular imprqssion that 
5;ane sugar is preferable, scientists insist 
(hat in every case, the pure cane sugar, Oir 
saccharose, can be crystallized out , froini 
either, canQ or beet, and that the; sugar is 
identical in chemical composition, appearr 
ance and properties. By no chemical test 
known to the United States Department of 
Agriculture can pure crystallized saccha- 
rose from these different sources be di^Sr 
tinguished. The popular impression to the 
contrary -probably comes from the Use ol 
beet sugar that has been imperfectly puriT 
fied. :,It is interesting to note that there 
arer oyer [ninety grades of sugar known,, to 
commerce. The difference between the^q 
grades is often so slight that it is irnpossi-; 
bl^ to distinguish without painstaking 
laboratory analysis. In this book white 
sugar and confectioner's sugar are us^; 
wherever passible because they are the pur-? 
est kinds. .Brown sugar and' co^ee, .A,,r 
much used : in candyrmaking, are grades^ 
which have not been refined to so high fti 
point. ,:)r.rl^ l£;io\'SMTt;no:) '(rUit^OD aid] n.l 

A Word should be ; said <5oitcerning glu-^ 
cose*. The complaint which, has been m^ade 



46 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

in connection with glucose has not been 
made against the substance itself, but 
against the way it was used. The amateur 
candy-maker, however, often has difficulty 
in obtaining glucose, even though in some 
processes it is most useful. 

R. E. Doolittle of the Federal Board of 
Food and Drug Inspection, declares that no 
question of harmfulness has been raised by 
this board with respect to the use of glu- 
cose in food products. Where glucose is 
substituted for sugar and used instead of 
natural sweetening agents, the ruling has 
been made that its presence should be 
plainly declared upon the label of the 
product. The reasons for this action are: 
(i) where a manufactured substance is sub- 
stituted for a natural one it is believed that 
the purchaser is entitled to be informed of 
the substitution; (2) the cost of glucose is 
usually somewhat lower than that of suc- 
rose; (3) glucose consists only in part of 
a sugar, dextrose, and is inferior to sucrose 
in sweetening power. 

In this country commercial glucose is 
manufactured from the starch of the In- 
dian corn. The starch is suspended in 



SUGAR 47 

water, the whole placed into large steam 
tanks together with some hydrochloric acid, 
the steam is turned on to these tanks and 
the whole brought up to a heavy pressure. 
By this means the starch is partially con- 
verted into dextrose, a sugar, and dextrin, 
a gum. When the conversion has reached 
the proper point the pressure is removed, 
the hot liquid is neutralized with sodium 
carbonate, filtered and evaporated to a thick 
liquid. The resulting compound contains 
about 35 per cent, dextrose, about 45 per 
cent, dextrin, a small percentage of ash and 
the rest water. 

A word of caution should be given con- 
cerning the time of eating sugar. Ob- 
viously if candy is consumed before meals 
it will destroy the appetite and interfere 
seriously with the meal. Obviously, also, 
it is unwise to eat heavily of candy before 
retiring. Notwithstanding her enthusiasm 
for vegetable candies the writer feels these 
cautions should be just as much observed 
with vegetable candy as with any other. 

The whole question of the amount and 
form of sugar to be given to children, is 
one of utmost importance. Children lose 



48 CANDY-MAKraG .REVOLUTIONIZED 

more heat from the skin for every pound ol 
body .weight than do the adults, and be^ 
(tause of this iact, require proportionately 
more heat. This heat can come only from 
food and sugar is, the food which produces 
this, heati most directly and most cheaply. 
This need for a heat producing food, it could 
be, urged, could be readily met by the use 
erf r fat*. The difficulty is that fat^ and par- 
ticularly fat meat, is generally disliked by 
thci , child, i : Because of this - distaste, his . 4^* 
sir^ :; for i . alii ; sorts; / oi sweet ; thingsf i . has 
Undoubtedly a physiological basis. It 
is necessary, however, to observe very 
carefully the digestibility of sugar, jand 
sweetened foods in order to decide to what 
extent sugar is to replace starch in ; the 
dietary. The effect of sugar upon tihe,. ap- 
petite for other foods must be given par- 
ticular care. Mrs. Mary Hinman, Abe], 
president of the i American ; Homei -E^cp- 
nomics Association, says that, until a child's 
stomach is capable of digesting starch, the 
needed carbohydrate is furnished » in if the 
sugar of milk. The child a year old who 
drinks two quarts, of milk per day takes^/in 
■this way about thr^e ounces of sugan , %J^s 



SUGAR 49 

the stomach becomes able to digest starch/* 
Mrs. Abel continues, "the child is less and 
less dependent on the sugar of milk, rer 
placing it with the carbohydrates of vege- 
table origin, while the proteids and fat 
found in eggs, meat, and cereals take the 
place of those constituents that were at first 
exclusively furnished in milk. Milk, how- 
ever, remains through childhood a valuable 
source of all these food principles. ; 
. *' The fact that sugar has a high food 
valtie is not the only point to be considered. 
The child will easily obtain the needed car- 
bohydrates in other forms and will thrive 
if the digestion remains sound and its relish 
for wholesome food unimpaired. For in^ 
stance, one often hears it said that a cer- 
tain child does not relish milk. In such 
cases it might be found that the child's ap- 
petite, being sated by sugar in other foods, 
is no longer attracted by the mild sweetness 
of fresh milk, delicious as it is to theun* 
spoiled palate. It would be well, perhaps, 
in this instance, to cut down the allowance 
of sugar in the hope of restoring the taste 
for so invaluable a food as milk. Dr. Rotch 
insists that the infant, even in its second 



50 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

year, should never be allowed to taste 
sweets. He says, 'When these articles are 
withheld it will continue to have a healthy 
appetite and taste for necessary and proper 
articles of food.' Even much later, for the 
same reasons, the introduction of large 
amounts of sugar into the daily food of 
children is to be carefully considered. 
Children do not require a variety of flavors 
to stimulate the appetite, but the taste is 
easily perverted and the backward step is 
diflicult to take. Those who have studied 
the food habits of children seem to agree 
that sugar should from the very first be 
withheld from the dish that forms the staple 
food of the child — that is, the mush or 
porridge of oatmeal or some preparation 
of wheat or corn. This article of diet, 
eaten only with milk or cream, falls into the 
same class as bread and milk, and forms the 
simple, wholesome basis of a meal. The 
sugar given the child is better furnished in 
the occasional simple pudding, in the lump 
of sugar, or homemade candy, not that its 
food value is better utilized, but the whole 
food of the child is thus more wholesome." 
Mrs. Mary Hinman Abel concludes her 



SUGAR 51 

discussion with the statement : " Sugar is a 
useful and valuable food. It must, how- 
ever, be remembered that it is a concen- 
trated food and therefore should be eaten 
in moderate quantities. Further, like other 
concentrated foods, sugar seems best fitted 
for assimilation by the body when supplied 
with other materials which dilute it or give 
it the necessary bulk.'' 

It is this fact, from the point of view of 
the dietitian, that commends vegetable 
candy so highly. The vegetable base gives 
the necessary bulk and dilution — in addi- 
tion to adding other valuable food elements. 



,„:;.. ,,;4O^0RATIYJ5,^;:,4:NpiSSobofn nr 

hoilii i^ari ^^rrr'^o? i£i:jrf= ,Rb(>o"i bo)s-ri«3Dnoo 
K^j[^,,.;.J^ FROM POTATO PASTE.„3^^ ^oi 

ovl^ow that the use of vegetable t)5ts6k^ is 
reduced to principles, the amateur confec^ 
tioner need ; hay e? ^o difificulty in working 
out in candy attractive and novel designs 
suitable to all special days and uses. And 
the best of ^it ^is ^ thanks to such a humble 
vegetable i as the potato -— she can follow 
her own ideas and fashion in confectionery 
a pattern that is all her own. Moreover, 
she can take comfort in the thought that in 
her product there is none of the highly in- 
jurious ingredients unfortunately all too 
common in some decorative candies. 

As the foundation for one sort of deco- 
rative confectionery, potato paste must be 
made. Steam or boil Irish potatoes, drain 
them, and force them through a fine sieve, 
— the finer the better. With one-half cup- 
ful of Irish potato, so prepared, mix one 
tablespoonful of corn starch. Gradually 

&2 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 53 

and carefully work in enough confec- 
tioner's sugar , so -that: -the; .mixjturje' can be 
rolled.r?^iat?h baiibs-b odi }o msJisq .o 

The "fine sieve/' be it noted, plays a 
conspicuous and important part in the makt- 
ing of candy from vegetablesi Moreover^ 
it should be borne in mind that no vegr 
etable particle will either soften in. or codk 
up into syrup. While cooking, . ^^heL^ rveg*- 
etable particles are just as individual as 
though they were in separate vessels; coilr 
sequently they must be keptrcirculating las 
uniformly as is possible through the syrup 
in-order to prevent the accumulation of 
masses 6£?i vegetable matter; of ijsufficierit 
bulk and weight to; sink to the bottom, of 
the sauce pan and cause the mixture td 
burn.; Moreover, should the mixture ea-^ 
cape burning, it would develop gluey, spots 
that would make the finished product, lackr 
ing in the smoothness that is the Ideal :jQf 
the candy-cook. ji 0.1 ni 

. /Flavor ;and color this paste to _suit,: pMce 
it on-a surface well dusted with confection? 
er's sugar and roll it to the desired thin- 
ness. .Cut it in shapes to suit. Cooky cut- 
ters or any other tin cutters may be used., 



54 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

More often, however, the amateur confec- 
tioner will prefer her own design. 

Cut a pattern of the desired design from 
paper, or, if it is to be used repeatedly, 
from paste board. Oiling the pattern not 
only gives it a firmer edge and prevents 
tearing but also allows any sugar or paste 
that may have adhered to it easily to be 
wiped off. Lay the pattern over the paste, 
and, with a sharp pointed knife, cut along 
the edges. Lift the newly cut forms care- 
fully with a thin knife and transfer them 
for drying to an oil cloth or, if this cannot 
be done, to a waxed paper or a tin very 
thinly dusted with confectioner's sugar. 
Do not move them again until they are dry. 
If it is desired to pack the candy, cook a 
crystal — a " crystal " is a syrup of one 
part water and three parts sugar — to two 
hundred and twenty degrees and after it 
has cooled five minutes, dip the confection 
into it. 

It is not essential that the forms be 
dipped into the crystal nor is the crystal ab- 
solutely necessary to any of the confections 
that are often coated with it. All this is ex- 
plained in Chapter V — Crystallization. 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 55 

A knife which is of almost constant use 
in making decorative candies and which is 
particularly satisfactory for lifting small 
forms is a palette knife such as artists use 
for mixing their colors. It is thin, flexible 
and sufficiently sharp for cutting fondant. 
Also the blade lends itself to use in many 
different positions because its curved shape 
allovv^s the hand a degree of freedom not 
possible with the ordinary knife. The 
palette knife is much better for freeing or 
lifting forms from a flat surface than a 
spatula or a case knife. 

The imagination of the candy-maker will 
suggest special designs for special occa- 
sions. The fancy of the confectioner will 
suggest many attractive original forms, be- 
sides the traditional red and white hearts 
for St. Valentine's Day, — note illustration 
No. 17 in the frontispiece — the green sham- 
rock for March 17, and the hatchet for Wash- 
ington's birthday. Christmas, New Years, 
Easter, Memorial Day, Fourth of July, 
Labor Day, Columbus Day, Hallowe'en and 
innumerable local holidays, like Bunker 
Hill day and Patriots' Day of Massa- 
chusetts, — all of these special occasions 



56 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

offer abundant opportunity to the candy- 
maker who realizes that from the paste can 
be made represehtatiohs of anything f fonti 
a firecracker to a regiment of soldiersJ 
Cboky cutters may also be used indefinite- 
ly; -yvriiat child would riot iikfe c^twiy in the 
f(>rm of stars, dogs, horses, and trees? ■ - 
- iGreen Leaves. — ^An excellent illustration' 
of the- possibilities of potato paste is given 
hf green leaves. As the basis for them, 
Goto potato paste green, by the use of 
grebri eoioririg p^ste, of -the' harmless v'^g- 
etable sort, and flavor fairly strongly with 
peppermint. Roll the paste thin, cut out 
the lealvesv tjsing thfe point of a knife or a 
tiiixtitter, and model the veins. A small^ 
blunt,- wooden tool>— even a clean of aiige 
sti^ck Will ■^o--^^hdtfld be it^eii'to make the 
depressions that are the veihsv After th^ 
leaves have dried on waxed paper, dip into 
a crystal cooked to two' hundred and tweh- 
ty-ftve degrees. Drain them on a wire faek 
and dust them evenly with granulated 
stfgaf. It iig ^ell to use a thin bladed knife 
to lift the pieces. See the small box in the 
middle of the illustration facing page 98, 
and No. I in the frontispiece. - 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 57 

II. VIOLETS 

Violets. — In hot weather violets do not 
take kindly to the " candying " process, 
and in cold they are expensive and hard to 
get. There are no such limitations, how- 
ever, to pop-corn and cocoanut. " Violets " 
made from them are especially good 
Christmas candies, because they are decora- 
tive and can be made a month or six 
weeks in advance — long before the last 
rush. 

Pop-corn Violets. — Using the hard spots 
for centers, jam and break well-blown 
kernels of pop-corn until they resemble vio- 
lets, as they will do with more exactness 
than would be thought. Boil one cupful of 
sugar and one-third cupful of water until a 
syrup is formed; the thermometer should 
register two hundred and nineteen degrees. 
After the syrup is cool, dip the pop-corn 
into it, making sure that the liquid forms an 
even and complete covering. As a thin 
crust begins to cover the syrup, keep push- 
ing it down into the liquid. If this is done 
the syrup can all be ust d before it has time 
to harden. Immediate, after the surplus 



58 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

has drained off, dredge lightly with pow- 
dered sugar, into which has been worked 
violet coloring paste, previously moistened 
with a few drops of violet extract, or even 
water. In this case the colored sugar should 
be a shade or two lighter than is desired for 
the finished product, as the syrup darkens 
the color. 

Note No. 2 of the frontispiece. 

Cocoanut Violets. — Mix the white of an 
Ggg, one-half cupful confectioner's sugar — 
the kind sometimes known as XXXX — and 
one-half cupful of Irish potato prepared as 
directed above. This makes more candy 
than the home confectioner ordinarily has 
use for, but directions for a smaller amount 
cannot well be given owing to the practical 
impossibility of dividing an Qgg. An easy 
way out of the difficulty, however, is to 
use as much of this mixture as is desired 
for the violets and to save the rest for use 
in making potato fondant, described here- 
after. 

Flavor this mixture with violet extract. 
Add the color with the extract, but remem- 
ber that a little will go a long way. Use 
vegetable violet coloring paste until the 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 59 

color IS a shade or two darker than is de- 
sired for the finished product. Stir in cocoa- 
nut until all the mass adheres to the cocoa- 
nut. Baker's cocoanut is better than the 
shredded, but often the shredded must be 
used, as the other size is becoming more and 
more difficult to obtain. If the shredded is 
used, break it so that each piece will not be 
more than one-half inch long. If the mix- 
ture does not then dry readily, stir in more 
confectioner's sugar. 

To fashion the violets, dip the fingers 
into cold water, take up a quantity of the 
preparation about the size of a violet, and 
model into the shape of the flower. A little 
practice will enable the candy-maker to 
form objects that look more like violets 
than do the flowers themselves after they 
have been put through the candying 
process. Sift granulated sugar over 
each flower, shaking off surplus sugar. 
Dry on waxed paper. This confection 
would better be used within two or three 
weeks. 

Violet Boutonniere. — From violets, pre- 
ferably cocoanut, boutonnieres very attract- 
ive for favors can be fashioned. Have 



6o CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

ready a supply of the violets, candied cress 
leaves, violet, green or tinsel foil, lace paper 
mats, — small paper doilies may be substi- 
tuted, — and number twenty-two wire. It is 
well to cut wires six inches long for they can 
later be trimmed or bent to form a stem of 
from three and one-half to four inches long. 
With a fine needle puncture the back of a 
cocoanut violet and insert the end of a piece 
of wire. To make the union firm, place a 
drop of thick syrup at the point at which 
the wire enters the mixture. Seven violets 
so treated will be sufficient for one bouton- 
niere. In a similar manner, wire one less 
of the crystallized cress leaves. Put all the 
wires through the center of the mat. 
Group the violets about one placed in the 
center. As nearly all mats come with an 
even number of designs in the edge, it is 
much easier to arrange the boutonniere if 
the row of flowers next the mat contains an 
even number also. The leaves should be 
so arranged in a row underneath the flow- 
ers. Before an attractive arrangement can 
be made, some little experimenting may be 
necessary. Wrap the wires with tissue 
paper and cover with foil. The making of 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 6i 

the boutonnieres is not so difficult as it 
sounds, though some knack is required for 
the best results. 

See the illustration opposite page 'J2, 

III. FROM POTATO FONDANT 

Uncooked Fondant. — Potato fondant is 
another base — even more useful than po- 
tato paste — upon which many confections 
may be built. There are two kinds — 
cooked and uncooked. To make the un- 
cooked, boil or steam Irish potatoes, drain, 
and force them through a fine sieve. In all 
candy-making with potatoes, these direc- 
tions are of the utmost importance. Un- 
less the potato is carefully forced through 
a fine sieve, the candy made from it will 
have hard and gluey spots after it has dried 
out. Mix one-half cupful of the potato so 
prepared with the unbeaten white of one 
^gfe- ^^^ gradually confectioner's sugar 
until the whole mass assumes the consist- 
ency of bon-bon cream. Several uses for 
potato fondant will be described below, but 
it may be substituted for French fondant 
in any of the confections of which that is a 
part. 



62 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

Cooked Potato Fondant. — With one-half 
cupful of potato, prepared as for the un- 
cooked fondant, very thoroughly mix two 
cupsful of sugar and thin with two-thirds 
of a cupful of milk. Place the mixture on 
an asbestos mat over the fire and cook until 
thick — to the sticking point. Pour the 
mass on a cold, damp marble and " cut in " 
like plain fondant. Knead small quantities 
at a time until the whole batch is smooth. 
Pack in tins lined with wax paper. 

The fondant can be used without addi- 
tional sugar and does not stick to the 
hands. It is particularly useful as a cov- 
ering. 

Modeled Candy. — Modeled candy is easy 
to make, good to look at and good to eat. 
When shaped to imitate fruit or vegetables, 
it is useful as table decoration, and is al- 
ways welcome for children's parties. In- 
deed, there is no sort of candy that is surer 
of a warm welcome by young or old! 

The difficulty has been, however, that 
modeling with almond paste requires the 
use of ingredients that are very expensive 
and very often difficult to obtain. This has 
made experimenting in modeling rather ex- 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 63 

pensive for the unskilled home candy- 
maker. Potato fondant, on the other hand, 
is inexpensive and so easily obtained that 
the amateur need not count the cost of fail- 
ures while she experiments. By following 
the directions carefully very little practice 
in the modeling will give her a facility that 
removes her from the class of unskilled 
modelers. If she prefers to use almond 
paste, the home candy-maker may do her 
practicing with potato fondant. Moreover, 
many young women have studied clay 
modeling and to them the modeling of 
candy is indeed simple. While the modeled 
candy that is sold in candy stores often 
— though not always — contains harmful 
substances, potato fondant is absolutely 
wholesome. 

Potato fondant shows particular superior- 
ity over the almond paste in the making of 
small objects and all fine and thin work. 
The results are as attractive to the palate 
as to the eye, although candy modeled from 
potato fondant does not have the peculiar 
oily richness of the products fashioned 
from almond paste. 

For one batch take as much of the un- 



64 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

cooked potato fondant as the work in hand 
calls for. Into it work all the sugar that it 
will take. Stop the kneading just as soon 
as the mixture shows a tendency to crumble. 
Model it into any form desired. It is best 
not to make the pieces too large. The 
modeling may be done with the small clay 
modeling tool now common in kindergartens 
and technical schools, or with a clean 
orange stick. 

A thin sheet of glass will be found ex- 
ceedingly satisfactory upon which to model. 
As the glass is thin, intricate flowers of 
many petals, for instance, can be slipped 
off with little disturbance. Use a thin 
knife to loosen and lift only slightly, slip- 
ping each model off with as little handling 
as possible. Another advantage is that the 
glass can easily be washed. 

Coloring. — The vegetable coloring pastes 
which are sold for use in cooking are harm- 
less. A set of the small jars ordinarily 
sold for ten cents a jar will probably be 
enough for any candy that the amateur may 
make in one season. The colors generally 
in the set are fruit red, leaf green, golden 
yellow, caramel, violet, damask, rose, 



M'. 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 65 

mandarin, orange blue, salmon and chestnut. 

These pastes may be used in three ways. 
They may be cooked or worked into a 
candy mixture or they may be used very 
much the same as water color pigments 
and applied with a brush. 

In the first method it is well to remember 
that the shade should be mixed a little 
heavier than desired and must be very 
thoroughly mixed if used in fondant or pre- 
pared compounds. The rules of color com- 
bination prevail here as everywhere. So if 
grades of tone or different colors are de- 
sired almost any wish may be met by com- 
bination of color. 

To get just the tone desired, after mix- 
ing the colors dissolve a small portion in 
water and then dip into this liquid a 
lump of sugar. If the tint is not the right 
one, it is easily changed. 

Any shade of green may be obtained by 
mixing blue and yellow with leaf green. 
All shades of orange are obtainable from 
yellow and red. All shades of violet or 
mauve or even purple for deep violets may 
be made from red and blue in different pro- 
portions. 



66 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

If the color in your candy is not clear 
and uniform it is because it has not been 
thoroughly mixed. To avoid spots it must 
be evenly incorporated through the entire 
mass. If this does not seem possible w^ith 
coloring paste, dissolve in a little v^arm 
v^ater and then add it to the fondant or pre- 
pared compound. 

In applying w^ith the brush use the wash 
methods much as in water color work and 
the shading will be much more artistic and 
the variety much greater. Apply a medium 
shade uniformly and let thoroughly dry and 
then shade with light and darker tones. 
Do not use much water, as the surface of 
the candy does not absorb the water as does 
water color paper. 

White Daisy. — This makes an unusually 
pretty modeled piece, as will be seen from 
the illustration facing page 138, and from 
No. 13 of the frontispiece. 

White potato fondant is used for the 
petals and candied orange peel for the cen- 
ter, and angelique for the stem and leaves. 

Flavor the potato fondant with one of 
the stronger extracts such as peppermint, 
cinnamon or cloves. If desired it may be 



DECORATIVE CANDIES ^7 

used without flavoring, but the more deli- 
cate flavors are not so pleasing. Mix 
enough sugar with the fondant for it to 
mold smoothly and easily and hold its 
shape. Upon a clean piece of glass, or oil 
cloth, if glass is not easily obtainable, 
place a piece of angelique of a size suitable 
for the stem. To form the petals roll 
pieces of potato fondant between the 
fingers. Properly arrange these petals 
around the center. Press a piece of candied 
orange peel down upon the stem and petals. 
This peel gives the yellow center of the 
daisy and acts as an additional means for 
holding the stem and petals together. Or, 
yellow fondant may be substituted. Run 
a thin knife under the flower and lift it over 
the glass to an oil cloth placed over a 
board or to a piece of waxed paper and dry 
for twenty-four hours. 

Cook to two hundred and twenty degrees, 
a syrup made of one cupful of sugar and 
one-third of a cupful of water; pour this 
into a dish so that the syrup will be about 
an inch deep. Add to the daisies such 
leaves cut from angelique as may be de- 
sired and then dip into this liquid and lift 



68 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

upon a wire rack. In the making of this 
as in all composite models the crystal syrup 
— one cupful of sugar and one-third cup- 
ful of water cooked to two hundred and 
twenty degrees — is an essential asset for 
gluing purposes. A small bristle brush 
is good for applying, but care must be used 
as in using glue not to use too much of the 
syrup. The syrup, when dry, will hold the 
leaves to the stem. If the amateur con- 
fectioner is very conscientious, she may im- 
prove the looks of the flowers by coloring 
the outside edges of the centers lightly 
with sugar — first a little brown and 
then a touch of yellow placed there 
with the pointed end of the modeling 
stick. 

Before the flowers have thoroughly set, 
free them from the wires of the rack. 
Shortly after the dipping, when as much of 
the syrup as will has run ofif the flowers, 
run the fingers along the under side of 
the rack springing the wires under each 
piece. This method not only frees the 
flowers but it rids them of undue accumu- 
lations of the syrup. Otherwise, the wires 
would dry into the candies, which would 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 69 

be broken upon their removal. Leave on 
the rack until dry. 

Yellow Daisy. — Yellow daisies may be 
made by coloring the white potato fondant 
or by making fresh fondant, using the yolk 
of the Ggg in place of the white. The 
fondant made of the yolk will not model 
quite so readily but coloring is unnecessary. 

Form the yellow daisy as the white, but 
use a small raisin for the center, instead of 
the piece of orange peel. No colored sugar 
is necessary. Crystallize as before. 

If exceptionally bright and clear colors 
are desired, the flowers may be dipped 
twice into a thin crystal instead of once 
into an ordinary crystal. Use the same 
proportions of sugar and water — one cup- 
ful to one-third cupful cooked to only two 
hundred and twenty degrees. Into this dip 
the flowers after they are thoroughly dry, 
and dry on a rack as before. The next 
day dip them again into a crystal of the 
same sort. Dry as before. The result will 
be glossy flowers, free from crystals, with 
particularly beautiful yellows and browns. 

Calla Lily. — This is particularly suitable 
for Easter time. For the stem, use a small 



70 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

stick of angelique. Make the center from 
yellow fondant. While still moist, dip into 
granulated sugar. See the illustration fac- 
ing page 138. 

If the yellow fondant is not on hand, a 
little of the ordinary white may be colored 
yellow and used. It is hardly worth while 
to make up a batch of the special egg fon- 
dant for one set of lilies. 

From the white potato fondant, pat out 
rather thin pieces, wrap them around the 
stem, form the lily and curl the edges and 
make the pointed top and the front fold 
prominent. If leaves are desired, cut a long 
leaf from the angelique, dip the stem end 
into thick syrup and fasten to the stem. 
To make a perfect union, cover the stem 
below the lily with syrup. 

If the lilies are to be used for box trim- 
mings, do not make the stems very long and 
if leaves are used, bring them up well onto 
or behind the flower to give added strength 
so that the stems will be unlikely to break 
at their juncture with the lily. 

Red Apples. — As dinner favors, red ap- 
ples are unusually effective. For the foun- 
dation use pulled figs, stuffed with any good 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 71 

mixture. Nuts and pitted dates may be 
used for the filling, but the combination is 
a little too heavy. Marshmallows and pecan 
meats are preferable. A third possibility 
is chopped nuts and figs. Whatever filling 
is used, the method of its insertion is the 
same. If the figs are dry, steam them thor- 
oughly. Make a slit in the side, fill with 
the chosen mixture, and pinch together the 
edges of the opening. 

As the covering for the figs, uncooked 
fondant must be used. Cinnamon is a pop- 
ular flavoring. Color it with red paste. 
At this stage in the process it should not 
be made the shade desired for the finished 
product, but there should be enough of the 
red to overcome the dead white of the fon- 
dant. In other words, make the first coat- 
ing much lighter than it otherwise would be. 
Into the uncooked fondant, sugar must be 
worked until modeling is easy. 

Encase the stufifed fig in fondant. The 
thickness of the coating will depend upon 
the size of the fig; the finished product 
should be about the size of a real apple. 
Model the surface so that it looks as much 
like an apple as possible. If it is desired, 



72 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

to have the confection all edible, use a piece 
of angelique for the stem; a twig from a 
vine or bush really looks better, hov^ever. 
For the blossom end use a clove. If the 
general directions given above are followed, 
the result will be a surprising naturalness. 

Proceeding as directed on page 64, use 
the vegetable coloring pastes for the color- 
ing. As the red color paste is likely to have 
the magenta shade overmuch, the first coat- 
ing would better be of orange and the second 
of enough dark red to give the true apple 
red. 

To intensify the color and leave the apple 
glossy, brush it with crystal syrup cooked 
to two hundred and twenty degrees. The 
syrup should be used while yet warm and 
should be applied smoothly. 

By the use of other colors, other sorts of 
apples can be made. 

Before being eaten, these apples, like real 
apples, should be cut into sections. 

See the illustration facing this page, and 
No. 24 of the frontispiece. 

Single Roses. — They may be pink, red, 
yellow or white. The process in each case 
is the same except for the coloring and the 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 73 

flavoring. Take as much fondant as is 
needed for roses of one color and as the 
base, use uncooked potato fondant. Di- 
vide it into three lots and color with 
paste the shade desired — the first so very 
faintly that its tint is just off the white, the 
second a little deeper and the third deeper 
still. Always remember that immersion in 
hot syrup deepens the color. Remember, 
too, that the three lots of different shades 
are for roses of one color only. 

For red roses, use cinnamon flavor and 
red coloring. For yellow roses, use clove 
as flavoring and yellow as coloring. Yellow 
roses are shown as Nos. 3 and 26 of the 
frontispiece. Be very careful not to use 
too much color. For white roses, use the 
plain fondant, but after the rose has dried 
a touch of green must be added to give 
depth and character. 

For pink roses, use rose water as flavor 
and pink as coloring. 

Whatever the color of the rose, form five 
petals, curling the edges to imitate those of 
the natural rose, and using different shades 
for different petals so that the rose will 
have natural variety of color. At the center 



74 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

use a small piece of angelique; a touch of 
darker green coloring to the center of the 
angelique gives the rose greater verisimili- 
tude. It is w^ell to model them upon a sheet 
of glass and when completed lift on to a 
v^axed paper to dry. 

If the rose is a white one, let it be re- 
membered that it must be shaded with 
light green. 

When the flowers are dry dip them into 
a crystal, cooked to two hundred and twen- 
ty-five degrees. Use brown and yellow 
sugar to imitate the pollen around the green 
centers. The pointed end of the wooden 
tool will be useful in placing these colored 
sugars. They must be made to stand out 
clearly. If too much syrup has collected 
around the center, be sure to push it out 
with the blunt end of the tool before try- 
ing to put the sugar in place. 

After the roses have dried, they are ready 
to look at and eat. 

Rose Buds. — From potato fondant, col- 
ored as desired, model several small petals. 
Cut a piece of angelique to represent the 
stem and properly arrange the petals around 
one end of it and press them on. The leaves 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 75 

and thorns are to be made from angelique 
and attached by pressing them to the stem 
using the crystal, prepared for the dipping, 
as glue. 

The calyx, made from angelique, may be 
also so attached. When the buds have 
dried dip them into a crystal cooked to two 
hundred and twenty-five degrees. Dry on 
racks. The crystal will make stronger the 
union of petals, leaves, thorns and stem. 

New Potato. — A particularly appropriate 
form in which to model the potato fondant 
is that of the new potato. Work the proper 
sized piece of fondant into as close an imi- 
tation as possible of the new potato. 

As this new potato has perhaps more of 
the fondant than many people will wish to 
eat at one time, several partial substitutions 
are possible. That statement, by the way, 
is no reflection upon the fondant, for any 
piece of candy, no matter how good, of the 
size of this is likely to be rather too much 
to be eaten at one time if of one flavor. 
Marshmallows, pitted dates with nut meats, 
pulled figs closely rolled, or English walnut 
meats are some of the things that may well 
be used as centers. Whatever is used 



y(> CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

should be rolled in enough of the fondant 
to make pieces of the desired size and form 
and then immediately rolled in dry cocoa. 

The result will be strikingly convincing 
— and good to eat. 

Pea Pod. — From fondant colored green, 
a pea pod may be modeled, split, and 
the peas modeled and placed within. 
When the forms are dry, dip them in a 
crystal made by boiling one cupful of 
sugar and one-third cupful of water to two 
hundred and twenty degrees. Use care that 
the syrup does not settle between the peas. 
Granulated sugar dusted over the pod gives 
a beautiful soft color and surface. 

Snow Balls. — All modeled candies are a 
delight to children, but snow balls always 
meet with a particular favor. 

Stuffed figs, prepared as directed for red 
apples on page 70, form the basis for them. 
To keep the color of the figs from showing 
through, cover them with the uncooked 
fondant and roll in the hands until perfect 
balls are formed. After the balls have 
dried two or more hours, roll them again 
in this coating of uncooked fondant to 
which has been added a small quantity 



DECORATIVE CANDIES yy 

of blue coloring. This is to insure the balls 
being snow white. Brush these balls with 
the unbeaten white of an ^^^ and roll in 
equal parts of crystal and granulated sugar. 

Grapes. — The confection described below 
and pictured opposite page 'J2 is good to 
look at, good to eat, and comparatively easy 
to make. It should be borne in mind, by 
the way, that the directions for candies 
often sound more difficult than the actual 
process. 

As the basis for the grapes, take smooth 
almonds, not blanched. Into the smaller 
end of each one insert nickeled wire, push- 
ing it well into the nut. Then cover the 
nuts with potato fondant. Work them 
with the fingers until they assume the 
forms of single grapes. Dry in a corn- 
starch bed. When the forms are dry, 
brush all the corn starch off. The grapes 
so formed should be colored a medium 
shade by the use of vegetable coloring 
pastes to resemble catawba or purple 
grapes. Because of the opaqueness of the 
grapes, they cannot be made to imitate 
closely the color of green grapes, but if the 
confectioner has an unusual fondness for 



78 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

green grapes, and is not over particular, 
there is no reason why she should not at- 
tempt them. 

After coloring, dry the grapes thoroughly 
on a wire screen, finish them in thin crys- 
tal, which has been colored somewhat 
lighter than the shade the finished grapes 
are expected to assume. In order to leave 
the confection with a glossy surface, it 
is possible to add to the crystal a very 
small quantity of gum Arabic. 

After the crystal is thoroughly dry, the 
wires should be wound with raffia of the 
leaf green shade, and, by twisting the 
wires together, the single grapes formed 
into bunches of the size desired. If the 
confectioner wishes large bunches, it is 
well to wind the wires onto a tree twig, for 
the sake of the additional firmness. It 
should be remembered that the large 
bunches are heavy. The use of the twig 
is also recommended for the natural ap- 
pearance it gives to the finished bunch. 

Brush the stems with a thin syrup. The 
loose ends of the raffia may be disposed of 
and the appearance of the confection made 
more natural by dampening them with the 



DECORATIVE CANDIES 79 

syrup and winding them around any round 
object of about the size of a lead pencil. 
The ends of the raffia, so treated, will re- 
semble tendrils. 

In taste, the grapes are much like the 
usual hard-covered almonds. 

Other Possibilities. — If the candy-maker 
has ambition and imagination, she will re- 
gard the foregoing objects as merely sug- 
gestive; she will work out for herself other 
objects of equal interest. The following 
suggestions as to coloring, she will find 
valuable no matter how much she may 
want to create for herself. For pears, use 
yellow with red; for peaches, yellow with 
a very little red ; for pumpkins, light orange 
with touches of green; for radishes, light 
red, with green for the stem ; for carrots, or- 
ange with a slight touch of green ; for plums, 
the so-called violet with a very little red; 
for strawberries, red, touched with yellow 
to simulate the seeds — and so on indef- 
initely. 



IX 

POTATO CARAMEL 

Three receipts are given for potato cara- 
mels and one for opera caramels. It 
should be noted that opera caramels and 
the ordinary potato caramels are as dif- 
ferent as fudge and taffy. The first of the 
receipts for potato caramels is by all odds 
the best, but it means much hard work. 
The second is much easier, but the re- 
sults, while good to eat, are not so pleas- 
ing in looks or consistency. The third is a 
compromise. In none, owing to the very 
slow cooking, is it possible to use a ther- 
mometer to advantage. The old tests, sup- 
plemented by a sort of intuition that old 
candy-makers call " caramel sense " will 
have to be used to determine when cookings 
are completed. But with good fortune and 
a little experimenting, the amateur con- 
fectioner's judgment will soon become ac- 
curate. 

80 



POTATO CARAMEL 8i 

Potato Caramel No. i. 

Stir well one pound of sugar, one cupful 
of milk, one cupful of Irish potato — boiled 
and sifted as directed before — two table- 
spoonfuls of butter and one-half teaspoon- 
ful of salt. Boil until thick, and thin with 
one-half cupful of milk, and again cook un- 
til thick; again thin with one-half cupful of 
milk and cook until the mass is of caramel 
consistency, tested in cold water. Stir as 
little as possible, but be careful that the 
mass does not stick to the bottom of the 
kettle. Pour on a well oiled marble between 
candy bars. Dry two days, cut in strips and 
dry again before finally cutting in squares. 
Place them in a cold place for several hours 
and then wrap them in parchment paper. 
They keep well. 

This is the kind of potato caramel that is 
especially good for chocolate coating, al- 
though all of the potato caramels can be 
chocolate coated. Make the caramels as 
above and allow them to dry in the open 
air for several hours and then cover with 
chocolate. 

The process is fully as laborious as it 
sounds, but the results are more than worth 



82 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

the trouble. The repeated cookings give 
the characteristic caramel taste and color. 
The following receipt, however, means less 
work. 

Potato Caramel No. 2 

Boil together one cupful of granulated 
sugar, one cupful of coffee A sugar, one- 
half cupful of Irish potato — treated as be- 
fore — one tablespoonful of butter, one cup- 
ful of milk, caramel coloring. Stir contin- 
ually until the mass forms a soft ball in cold 
water. Then pour it onto a well oiled 
marble between candy bars. 

Potato Caramel No. 3. 

Boil one pound of brown sugar, one cup- 
ful of milk, a piece of butter the size of a 
walnut, and one-quarter cupful of Irish po- 
tato — prepared as before — until a bit 
dipped from the mass will form a firm ball 
in cold water. Stir as little as possible. 
Pour on an oiled marble between candy 
bars. The result is more like fudge but is 
cooked to dryness without being grained 
by beating. 

Opera Caramel 

To two cupsful of sugar, one cupful Irish 
potato boiled, drained and forced through 



POTATO CARAMEL 83 

a fine sieve, add one tablespoonful of 
butter and thin with one-half cupful of milk. 
Cook until thick; remove from the fire. 
Put in one-half cupful of milk again. Cook 
until thick, remove from the fire and add 
one-half cupful of milk. Return the pan 
to the fire again. This is the last time. It 
is wise to place an asbestos mat under the 
saucepan. Cook until very thick — until 
a soft ball can be formed in cold water. 

After the mass has been removed from the 
fire, add one cupful of broken walnut meats, 
and one cupful of bon-bon cream, broken in 
small pieces so that it will be distributed 
quickly through the mass without much 
stirring and pour the mixture between 
candy-bars on an oiled marble. When cold 
cut it into squares ; for home use it will not 
need wrapping. 

As with potato caramel No. i, this con- 
fection is most pleasantly susceptible to 
chocolate coating. Allow it to dry in the 
open air for several hours and then cover 
with chocolate as usual. 

Broken nut meats can be added to any of 
the caramel recipes above. 



X 

POTATO — MISCELLANEOUS 

Potatoes are probably the most useful 
vegetable known to the maker of vegetable 
confectionery. As has been explained in 
the preceding chapters, they are the basis 
of potato fondant and potato paste, both 
of which are basic mixtures. 

The usefulness of the potato does not 
end with decorative candy. In the form 
both of paste and fondant and prepared in 
other ways, it is responsible for several 
pleasing new confections. 

Mocha Walnuts. — To the yolk of one 
egg beaten to a cream, add one-half cupful 
of Irish potato — boiled, drained, and forced 
through a sieve as described before — and 
one teaspoonful of coffee extract. Gradu- 
ally stir in confectioner's sugar until the 
mass can be made into soft balls. Flatten 
these balls, press on walnut meats, and 
spread to dry. If desired for packing, dip 
84 



POTATO — MISCELLANEOUS 85 

them into a crystal cooked to two hundred 
and twenty degrees. To insure a good sur- 
face and keep the cream from drying out, 
it may be well to dip the candy again after 
letting it dry a day. 

See No. 8 in the frontispiece. 

Pecan Creams. — The process for making 
them is the same as that described for mak- 
ing mocha walnuts except that lemon or 
vanilla extract is used instead of coffee, 
— see No. 14 of the frontispiece — and 
pecan meats, instead of walnut meats. In- 
deed, the imaginative candy-cook will be 
able to invent for herself several other new 
confections built upon this same principle. 

Raisin Creams. — To make them, form 
potato fondant — directions for which are 
given on page 61 — into balls and place 
a seeded raisin on each side. Cook a crystal 
syrup to two hundred and twenty-eight de- 
grees and keep it warm by the use of the 
steam bath. Into it, dip, one by one, the 
fondant balls, prepared as above. Dry on 
racks. If desired, ordinary bonbon cream, 
flavored and colored to suit the cook's 
fancy, may be substituted for the potato 



86 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

fondant. A satisfactory variety is given 
these raisin creams by pulling the raisin 
entirely over a pecan meat before at- 
taching to the cream. This confection 
is rich in flavor and most attractive in 
shape. 

Peppermint Chocolates. — Potato paste — 
described on page 52 — is the basis for 
them. Make a softer paste by using less 
sugar, work in peppermint to taste, form it 
into balls, flatten and dry for a couple of 
hours. Then dip them in chocolate as 
usual. After the finished candy has stood 
for a time long enough for the chocolate 
covering to have mellowed the center, the 
result will be a cream of excellent flavor 
and a texture unusually attractive because 
of its grain. The difference between this 
and the ordinary peppermint chocolate is 
so great that they really are not the same 
confection. 

-Celtic Almonds. — This attractive confec- 
tion is in reality a cream, but a cream so 
different from the ordinary nut cream that 
it seems to fall into a separate class. In 
place of the usual richness, there is here a 
delicacy of flavor and clearness of outline 



POTATO — MISCELLANEOUS 87 

that is a distinctly enjoyable addition to 
confectionery. 

Blanch almonds, split them, and dry in 
a soft cloth. Color potato fondant pink 
and flavor it with rose. Roll fondant so 
prepared into small balls, and place upon 
each side of each a split almond. Each 
piece should then be made to imitate as 
clearly as possible the shape of the real 
almond. The ideal result is a confection 
that is very little larger than the real al- 
mond with a thin layer of cream between 
translucent nut meats. After a little ex- 
perimentation, persuasive fingers can ac- 
complish this result. When fashioned, dip 
the candies into a crystal syrup cooked to 
two hundred and twenty-five degrees and 
roll in granulated sugar. 

Walnuts or pecans can be treated in the 
same way with white or colored fondant. 
The result, however, will not be so dis- 
tinctively dainty and will be little improve- 
ment upon the mocha walnuts and pecan 
creams described above. 

Chocolate Bars. — As the basis, take 
cooked potato fondant which has been well 
kneaded. Form it into a sheet about one- 



88 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

quarter of an inch thick. Cut therefrom 
bars an inch and a quarter long by a quarter 
of an inch wide. Dip them in chocolate 
and let them dry. 

A pleasing variation is made from the 
same base — cooked potato fondant. Knead 
into it melted chocolate. A portion of the 
resulting mass may be formed into balls 
and the rest rolled into a long piece as 
slender as a pipe stem. This small cylinder 
should be cut into two inch lengths and the 
ends pointed. Another method is to make 
small balls and give these a very thin coat- 
ing of white fondant. In any case, dry on 
a corn starch bed and coat with chocolate. 

Vegetable Cream. — Vegetable cream is 
another base with which much can be done 
in vegetable candy-making. In itself, it is 
good to eat and can be made to take many 
different and useful forms. To make it, 
mix two cupsful of sugar, one cupful of 
Irish potato — boiled or steamed, drained 
and forced through a sieve — one teaspoon- 
ful of butter, and one-half teaspoonful of 
salt. Boil to two hundred and twenty- 
eight degrees. Have ready one-fourth 
cupful each of preserved garden " ginger '* 
and spiced beets drained from their syrup; 



POTATO — MISCELLANEOUS 89 

cut very fine, and spread upon a marble 
slab. Over beet and " ginger " pour the 
cooked mixture, and " cut in " as for fon- 
dant. " Gingers " are described upon page 
loi and spiced beets upon page iii. 

Below, there are suggested five ways of 
using the cream. Many others, however, 
will come to the mind of the experienced 
candy-cook. 

Vegetable cream may be formed into 
balls and rolled in granulated sugar. The 
balls so prepared may then be rolled in 
shredded cocoanut, cut fine, or the balls 
without the sugar may be covered with the 
cocoanut. 

Another possibility is to dip the balls 
into chocolate. Nuts may be added, either 
by rolling the balls in the meats cut into 
little pieces, or by pressing the meats into 
the balls and treating with the crystal 
syrup, or by using a drop or two of the 
crystal to glue the nut meat to the ball 
and then coating. Moreover, the balls may 
be used in their simple form without any 
covering at all. 

No matter what is done with them, of 
course, they must be dried off before 
serving. 



XI 

SWEET POTATO 

Sweet potatoes used as the basis for 
candy-making should be baked. Boiled 
sweet potato changes color during the suc- 
ceeding processes and retains an amount 
of water that is likely to cause trouble. 
After baking, the potato should be forced 
through a fine sieve. Make sure that the 
sifting process is done so thoroughly that 
all fiber is removed. 

Sweet Potato Patties. — For the patties, 
boil until very thick one pound of granula- 
ted sugar, one cupful of sweet potato pre- 
pared as above; one-half cupful of desic- 
cated cocoanut, and one-half cupful of 
water. When the mixture has cooked, add 
one-half cupful of bon-bon cream, cut into 
small pieces. Stir thoroughly. As the 
mass begins to set, drop it quickly on waxed 
paper in small drops. Act promptly, for 
the mass sets quickly. The drops will not 
be smooth. 

90 



SWEET POTATO 91 

To improve the looks of these patties, 
they may be dipped in a crystal syrup, 
cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees ; 
and then dusted with granulated sugar. If 
they are not wanted immediately, they may 
be packed for any length of time not ex- 
ceeding six weeks provided they have been 
finished with the crystal and granulated 
sugar. 

Sweet Potato Knots. — Cook until very 
thick equal quantities of granulated sugar 
and sweet potato — prepared as before — 
and add a few drops of oil of cinnamon. If 
another color is preferred to the natural 
amber, add coloring paste to suit. Im- 
mediately spread the mixture over a tin 
sheet upon which has been sifted confec- 
tioner's sugar. The tin should be of such 
a size that the mass will be about one- 
quarter of an inch thick. When it has dried 
so that it will not stick to the fingers, with 
a long, thin knife, cut narrow ribbon-like 
strips about six inches long. Fashion them 
into bowknots. Be sure that there is not 
undue thickness at the center. The tools 
described in the second chapter — particu- 
larly page 16 — will be useful as will also 



92 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

be the glass sheet. If the candy is moist, 
dip the hands into XXXX sugar. Dry on 
oilcloth or waxed paper. When firm, dip 
into a crystal which has been cooked to two 
hundred and twenty-five degrees and al- 
lowed to stand for five minutes. Dry on 
a screen. 

Their attractiveness can be seen at a 
glance at the foreground of the illustration 
opposite page 138, and by looking at No. 18 
in the frontispiece. 

Sweet Potato Pastilles. — They are made 
from the same mixture as are the knots. 
While the mixture is still hot, drop it in 
small drops upon a cold bare marble, and 
dust them with granulated sugar. When 
they have dried for several hours, or, if 
possible, over night, lift with a thin knife, 
place two drops together by their bases, 
dredge again with granulated sugar to 
cover the edges, and dry. 



XII 
PARSNIP 

Crystallization forms the basis of candy- 
making with parsnips. By means of a 
modification of the old fashioned French 
hand method, it is possible to make a con- 
fection that is good in itself, useful as the 
basis for other confections, and of unusually 
long keeping qualities. Parsnip candy, 
though the invention of to-day, has a pleas- 
ing old fashioned taste and appearance. 

Candied Parsnips. — In method of prepara- 
tion and keeping qualities, they resemble 
the candied flag root of our grandmothers. 
They are useful to trim a box of candy. 
Peel the parsnips and leave them in cold 
water for two or three hours. Cut cross- 
wise into very thin slices, drop the slices 
into boiling water, and let them boil five 
minutes. After they have thoroughly 
drained, put them into a syrup made by boil- 
ing together one part of water and three 
parts of granulated sugar. Make sure that 
the syrup really is a syrup — that the sugar 
93 



94 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

and water have thoroughly united. Add 
the parsnips and boil for ten minutes. 

Next comes the use of a novel modifica- 
tion of hand crystallization — a process that 
the amateur candy-maker may well afford 
to make herself master of, because it is use- 
ful for many confections. Obtain a pan 
with sloping sides into which the drying 
rack will drop half way. As the pan must 
be used for candy-making and nothing else 
and as the greatest strength is not neces- 
sary, a suitable dish can probably be ob- 
tained from a ten-cent store. Stir carefully 
with a wooden paddle in order to make sure 
that all the pieces are separated and that 
the hot syrup comes into contact with all 
the surfaces of the confections. 

Pour the hot mass over the rack — in po- 
sition in the pan — and immediately put a 
board over the pan. Make sure that the 
vegetable is evenly distributed. The wood 
absorbs the moisture while a tin cover would 
make trouble by causing the steam to con- 
dense and drop back onto the candy. Leave 
the pan undisturbed for twenty-four hours. 
Then lift the rack out, pour the syrup into 
the kettle and cook to two hundred and 



PARSNIP 95 

twenty degrees. Return the vegetable to 
the syrup and stir carefully; each piece 
must be immersed. The small pieces of 
candy will be heated through in so very 
short a time that it is necessary only to 
make sure that each piece has been thor- 
oughly immersed in the hot syrup. Make 
sure that the rack is clean and free from 
particles of the syrup. Thereupon, again 
pour it over the rack arranged in the 
pan as before. Repeat the process four 
times, each time cooking the syrup two 
degrees hotter. The result is a slow crys- 
tallization which covers the candy so 
that it is perfectly preserved and very 
good to taste and look upon. Although 
the work must be distributed over six days, 
only a very few minutes are required ex- 
cept upon the first day. 

Parsnip Boutonniere. — The candied pars- 
nip forms the basis of one of the most dec- 
orative of all boutonnieres. For each of 
them have ready, besides a supply of the 
parsnips, candied as above, artificial fern, 
sometimes sold under the name '' imitation 
air plant," a lace mat, a number twenty-two 
wire, and one yard of ribbon one-half inch 



96 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

wide, the preferred color. See the illustra- 
tion opposite page J2. 

Mix one cupful of sugar and one-third 
cupful of water, and color the same as the 
ribbon. Cook the syrup thus made to two 
hundred and twenty-five degrees. Into 
this hot syrup drop the crystallized pars- 
nips, and allow them to remain a few min- 
utes. After they have become thoroughly 
and evenly colored, pour them upon a wire 
screen. After they have dried, attach to 
about two dozen of them pieces of wire 
about six inches long. It is well to place a 
drop of thick syrup at the point at which 
the wire enters the candy. 

Cut the ferns into lengths of from two to 
four inches. Mix the wired candies through 
the bunch of ferns, occasionally twisting 
a strand of fern around the wires so that 
all wires will be hidden. Slip the lace mat 
up over the wires and the ends of the ferns, 
wrap wires with tissue paper and cover with 
tinsel foil, either silver or gilt, and tie the 
center of the ribbon around the stem di- 
rectly under the mat and form a rosette. 
About five inches from the point tie the 
ends together in a bow knot. 



XIII 
CARROT 

To the art of candy-making, the use of 
carrots has brought a harmless new color. 
Formerly the peculiar yellowish orange of 
the carrot candy was a shade that the con- 
fectioner, amateur or otherwise, could not 
hope to attain without the use of artificial 
substances. 

The statement that carrots are valuable 
in candy-making for their color must not 
be thought to mean that the confections 
made from them are not very good to eat. 
Quite the contrary; carrot candies have a 
very pleasing flavor. 

Carrot Rings. — To make them, peel me- 
dium sized carrots and let them stand sev- 
eral hours in cold water. Cut crosswise 
into slices about one-quarter of an inch 
thick and with a small round cutter or sharp 
knife remove the center pith. Drop the 
rings into boiling water and cook until ten- 
der. After they have thoroughly drained, 
97 



98 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

drop them into a syrup made by boiling one 
part of water and three parts of sugar to 
two hundred and twenty degrees. Boil 
until the rings become translucent — prob- 
ably about ten minutes. Dry on a wire 
rack, taking care that the rings do not touch. 
The next day, heat the syrup to two hun- 
dred and twenty-five degrees and again dip 
the rings and dry as before. If desired, 
when they are dry, fill the centers with bon- 
bon cream or marzipan. When this center 
has become firm, dip the candy into a syrup 
cooked to two hundred and twenty-eight de- 
grees. Even if the centers are not filled, it 
is well to make this third dipping; the ther- 
mometer should, however, register two 
hundred and thirty degrees instead of 
merely two hundred and twenty-eight. 

Crystallized Carrot. — For this confection, 
proceed exactly as directed in the previous 
chapter for crystallized parsnip, substituting, 
of course, the carrots for the parsnips. 

Carrot Roll. — From ordinary cream fon- 
dant or from cooked potato fondant, make 
a thin strip about an inch wide. Place upon 
it small pieces of the crystallized carrot, pre- 
pared as directed above, and roll so that 




u 



bo 
> 



CARROT 99 

there is formed a long tube filled with the 
candied vegetable. Cut this tube into pieces 
as long as desired — half an inch is about 
right — and after drying until quite firm 
dip into a crystal cooked to two hundred 
and twenty-five degrees. If the pieces are 
not firm when they go into the crystal bath 
they are likely to soften and lose their 
roundness. 

"Gingers." — Preserved ginger is a delight- 
ful confection, but it is expensive, and can- 
not be obtained in every town. There is a 
substitute that when properly prepared has 
an added charm, because it is the product 
of the candy-maker's own art. Note the 
box at the extreme right of the illustration 
facing page 98. 

Garden "Ginger." — Take white, carrots, 
preferably of fine texture, boil them five or 
ten minutes, scrape off the outside layer, cut 
the carrots in quarters, lengthwise, and re- 
move the cores. Then remove the point 
and cut the remainder into slices about the 
size of the pieces of preserved ginger. Boil 
the pieces in fresh water until they are ten- 
der, but change the water frequently to de- 
stroy all vegetable taste and odor. Yellow 



100 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

carrots can be used, but in that case the re- 
sulting confection will differ from preserved 
ginger in color, although not in taste. 

To every pound of cooked carrots add two 
pounds of granulated sugar, one quart of 
water, two ounces of green ginger root 
shaved fine, and the juice and grated rind of 
one lemon. Boil the mixture for fifteen 
minutes, and repeat the boiling the next day, 
and surely once or twice more; at any 
rate, until the syrup is very thick. If the 
boiling was continuous for five hours, the 
moisture would be eliminated, but the tex- 
ture of the " ginger " would probably be 
ruined. The short cookings give the carrots 
the opportunity to absorb the cooling syrup 
slowly. If less water were used, — in order 
to reduce the time of cooking, — the carrot 
would harden too rapidly to take up enough 
syrup. 

If the " ginger '' is not wanted for im- 
mediate use, it can be stored in the syrup. 
The confection may be finished at once and 
packed dry, but the better method of preser- 
vation is in the liquid. The open season for 
carrots is very short and for the " ginger " 
is the whole year long! 



CARROT loi 

To finish, heat the syrup thoroughly and 
then drain. After the liquid has stopped 
dripping, roll each piece of the " ginger " in 
granulated sugar, place the pieces on a wire 
tray, making sure that no two pieces touch, 
and put the tray in an oven very slightly 
heated. When the confection is dry it is 
done. 

Variations. — Three variations are pos- 
sible. If a sharper taste is desired, add a 
few grains of Cayenne pepper the last time 
the syrup is boiled. If a moister product is 
preferred, omit the lemon-juice and rind. 
If green ginger cannot be obtained, substi- 
tute one ounce of ground ginger. Ground 
ginger, however, must be boiled in a fine 
cloth bag; otherwise particles of it will ad- 
here to the pieces of carrot. 



XIV 
BEAN 

Candied Green Beans. — Select well filled 
pods of green beans; wash, and then cook 
until tender in water to which a little soda 
has been added. Drain. 

To a pound of beans so cooked, add one 
gill of water, one pound of sugar, and one 
tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil this mix- 
ture for fifteen minutes, and let it remain 
in the syrup over night. The next day, 
drain the syrup from the beans and cook it 
to two hundred and twenty degrees. Place 
the beans upon the screen of the crystal 
pan, pour the syrup over them, and cover 
with a board. Repeat the process next 
day. 

When wanted for use, drain the syrup 
from the beans. Cook the syrup to two 
hundred and thirty degrees, return the 
beans to it, allowing them thoroughly to 
heat through. Turn them onto the screen, 
making sure that they are well spread. 

102 



BEANS 103 

Cover with a board, and, after a few hours, 
spread singly. 

Bean Taffy. — Bean taffy easily takes 
first rank among all taffies — vegetable or 
otherwise. The taste is good beyond 
words, and the consistency is pleasingly 
" chewy " without being tenacious to the 
point of teeth pulling! 

Lima beans are the best to use as the 
basis because the skins can easily be re- 
moved, but ordinary dried beans may be 
substituted if care is taken. Cover the 
beans with cold water, let them stand over 
night, and the next morning boil them un- 
til soft, and force through a fine sieve to 
remove all the skins. 

Boil together two cupsful of granulated 
sugar, one-half cupful of water, a table- 
spoonful of butter, and one-half cupful of 
the beans, prepared as above. After the 
mixture has boiled thoroughly, add one 
cupful of milk. Add the cupful of milk, 
one-third at a time. Stir the mixture and 
let it boil a few minutes after each addition 
of milk. When the thermometer registers 
two hundred and forty-two degrees, pour 
the mass onto an oiled marble between 



104 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

oiled candy bars so that it will set about 
one-quarter inch thick. As with ordinary 
taffy, cut into pieces of the desired size. 

Nut Bean Taffy. — Cut Brazil nuts cross- 
wise into shavings about one-sixteenth of 
an inch in thickness — about the thickness 
of the pieces of shaved cocoanut. Spread 
as many of them as are desired upon oiled 
marble between oiled candy bars. Pour 
over the nuts the mass described above. 
Treat as before. 



XV 
BEET 

To the candy cook, the discovery that 
beets make good confectionery brings a new 
flavor and a new color — one as desirable as 
the other, and that is saying a great deal! 
In candy made from beets there are several 
new shades of red which previously could 
not be obtained even by the use of artificial 
coloring matter. 

In case the beet color is desired for can- 
dies made upon other bases, it can be had 
very easily. The beets should be boiled 
until the water is colored red. Then this 
water may be substituted for the water 
called for by other receipts in vegetable 
candy-making. The beet color will be given 
but the beet flavor will not be. The result 
is a pleasing color without the use of any- 
thing that is artificial. 

Frosted Beet Slice. — Boil to two hun- 
dred and thirty-two degrees two cupsful of 
sugar, one tablespoonful of grated raw beet, 
105 



io6 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

one-third cupful of water, one teaspoonful 
of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of butter. 
Remove from the fire and stir in one-half 
cupful of broken walnut meats. When the 
mass begins to thicken, pour it between 
oiled candy bars on an oiled marble so that 
it will form a layer three-quarters of an inch 
thick. When cool, cover one-quarter of an 
inch thick with a frosting made of one cup- 
ful of sugar, one-quarter cupful of water, 
and one-eighth teaspoonful of cream of tar- 
tar, boiled without stirring to two hundred 
and thirty-four degrees and then flavored 
with a few drops of vanilla and lemon and 
beaten until creamy. When set, — a quick 
process — cut the mass into pieces about 
one-half inch wide and one and one-half 
inches long. If the confection is to be 
kept, crystallize at two hundred and 
twenty-five degrees. The looks are im- 
proved if the confection is then rolled in 
granulated sugar. Dry on a wire screen 
for twelve hours or so. 

Note No. ID in the frontispiece. 

Beet Puffs. — Cut one medium sized beet 
into thin slices, cover with one-half cupful 
of cold water and cook in a double boiler 



BEET 107 

until soft. Drain, and to the liquid thus ob- 
tained add one pound of sugar; boil two or 
three minutes. To this mixture, add one- 
half cupful of the cooked beet cut into 
fine pieces. Cook this mass to two hun- 
dred and forty degrees. Have ready the 
whites of two eggs, salted and beaten to a 
stiff froth. Remove from the fire and after 
the steam has ceased to rise, beat the mix- 
ture into the whites of the two eggs. 
Using a pecan meat to push with, drop this 
mixture from a teaspoon in small pufifs on 
waxed paper, leaving the pecan imbedded. 
This mixture is very foamy and adhesive, 
sets very quickly and must be handled rap- 
idly. These directions will yield about five 
dozen puffs. 

A few drops of rose water may be added 
if a more delicate flavor is desired. 

Beet Cubes with Variations. — Beet cubes 
possess remarkable color value. To make 
them, boil to two hundred and thirty de- 
grees two cupsful of granulated sugar, one 
tablespoonful grated raw beet, one-half cup- 
ful of water, one teaspoonful of butter and 
one cupful of shredded cocoanut. Pour the 



io8 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

mass between oiled candy bars upon 
greased marble so that it will form half an 
inch deep. 

Four things may be done with this mass. 
It may be cut into cubes. If wanted for 
future use it may be dipped into a crystal 
syrup to hold the moisture. Children will 
like it poured into oiled cup-cake tins or any 
other mold. If molded, care should be 
taken that the finished confection is not 
more than half an inch thick. If the cubes 
are dipped into bon-bon cream they will 
be of unusual beauty because of the pink 
showing through the fondant casing. 

Crystallized Beets. — Crystallized beets 
are fully as pretty as candied rose leaves. 
They are particularly valuable in trimming 
boxes of candy — especially " all vegeta- 
ble " boxes. 

To crystallize beets, use the process de- 
scribed for parsnips in Chapter XII. After 
the last crystallization, however, the pieces 
should be separated, dusted with granulated 
sugar, and dried on a wire screen, instead of 
being left on the rack. 

If it is desired to increase the illusion, 
add rose water to the syrup. 



BEET 109 

Spiced Beets. — Boil beets and cut them 
into cubes of about one inch. Mix one cup- 
ful of sugar and one-third cupful of vinegar. 
Spice highly. Cinnamon, cloves and all- 
spice should be used, and whatever else the 
fancy of the candy-maker dictates. Boil the 
mixture until it syrups, add the beets and 
cook ten minutes. Remove the mass from 
the fire, cover and set away for two days. 
Drain the syrup from the beets, boil the 
syrup to two hundred and twenty degrees 
and pour it boiling over the beets. Cover 
the mass and set it aside. Repeat this 
process on several successive days. 

Spiced Beet Bon-bons. — Take spiced 
beets and drain off the syrup. Cook the 
syrup to two hundred and thirty degrees. 
With a wooden paddle beat it at one side of 
the saucepan until it begins to look creamy. 
Thereupon, add the beets, stir the whole 
mass briskly and turn it onto a sieve. Dry 
the cubes on a rack, roll each in fondant, 
dry for two hours and dip in bon-bon cream. 



XVI 
TOMATO 

Tomato Marshmallow. — Very often 
marshmallows — even the sort sold in 
candy stores of the better class — con- 
tain gums and glucose which the amateur 
would find difficult to handle even if she 
felt no scruple in their use. Tomato 
marshmallows, however, are pleasing in 
consistency and more attractive in flavor 
than the old-fashioned kind. Moreover, 
they are easy to make, although it is 
necessary to give more detailed directions 
than would be required in the description 
of the process with which the home candy- 
maker is more familiar. 

Dissolve three tablespoonsful of granu- 
lated gelatine in one cupful of hot water. 
Cook and strain ripe tomatoes; to one-half 
cupful of the strained tomato add one cup- 
ful of sugar and cook the mixture to two 
hundred and thirty degrees. Have ready 
in a deep saucepan, three cupsful of sugar, 
no 



TOMATO III 

moistened with one-quarter of a cupful of 
water. - Upon it strain the tomato syrup, 
stir well, thin with a cupful of water, 
and cook to two hundred and forty de- 
grees. Set the mass off the fire, add 
the gelatine water previously prepared, 
mix thoroughly and strain into a fresh 
bowl. Have ready the whites of two eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth. With a French egg 
whip or a common wooden paddle, beat the 
cooked mass hard until it is white and 
does not separate. When it becomes foamy 
and spongy, gradually add the beaten egg 
whites and keep beating until the whole 
mass is very stringy and will almost set 
on the paddle. Sift upon the mass one 
tablespoonful of corn starch; stir well. 
Pour the candy between candy bars on a 
marble well dusted with XXXX sugar. 
Leave ten or twelve hours, cut into squares, 
roll well in XXXX sugar, spread the other 
side up and dry off. Instead of pouring the 
marshmallows between candy bars, they 
may be molded in corn starch. Store in a 
tight box. 

The receipt sounds more laborious than 
is the process. The repeated boilings are 



112 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

necessary to perfect the product. The 
acid of the tomato destroys the granularity 
of the sugar. Straining the mixture elimi- 
nates the particles of tomato which, not 
having blended thoroughly into the syrup, 
would cause trouble by sticking to the 
bottom of the saucepan in the later higher 
cooking. 

Chocolate Marshmallow. — Marshmallows, 
made as directed above, are the basis for 
them. Dip them in coating chocolate; the 
method of treatment is the same as with 
ordinary chocolate marshmallows. 

Vegetable Nougatine. — Mix two cupsful 
of sugar, one-third of a cupful of corn 
syrup, one-third of a cupful of strained 
honey, and one-third of a cupful of strained 
cooked tomato; boil the mixture to two 
hundred and sixty degrees. Beat three 
egg whites very stiff, and remove the mix- 
ture from the fire. Until about one-half of 
a cupful has been so used, dip a spoonful at 
a time on the eggs, beating the mass con- 
tinuously. From this point on, use an as- 
bestos mat under the pan. Return the re- 
mainder to the stove. This time cook the 
mass to two hundred and ninety degrees. 



TOMATO 113 

Pour it over the eggs, again beating con- 
tinuously. Thereupon, set the mixture on 
the stove once more. The mass should 
cook slowly until, when tried in water, a 
sample of it has the consistency that is de- 
sired in the finished candy. Some people 
like the vegetable nougatine soft, others 
like it " chewy," and still others want it 
to be hard. Stir in one-half of a cup- 
ful of almonds, blanched and cut into 
small pieces, and one-half of a cupful of 
garden " ginger " also cut into small 
pieces. 

Line a shallow straight-sided pan with 
wafer paper. Pour in the candy, and press 
a sheet of wafer paper onto the top. Let 
the mixture stand over night. The next 
morning remove the candy, paper and all, 
from the pan and place it on a marble slab, 
slightly oiled. With a long, thin knife, 
cut it into strips one and one-half inches 
long, and three-eighths of an inch thick 
and deep. Do not attempt to cut directly 
through the candy, but use a sawing mo- 
tion. Immediately wrap the pieces in 
parchment paper. 

Wafer paper, be it noted, is made from 



114 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

rice. It is easily soluble in water and may 
be eaten with impunity. 

Chocolate Nougatines. — If the nougatines 
are desired for chocolate coating, the process 
is very simple. Instead of pouring the 
mass into the pan, lined with wafer paper, 
it should be poured onto a greased marble, 
between greased candy bars, so placed that 
the mixture will completely fill the rec- 
tangle formed by the bars. As before, cover 
with wafer paper. Over the paper place 
a board, kept in place with a heavy 
weight, in order to make the mixture more 
solid. As before, cut into small pieces. 
The process of coating is the ordinary 
one. 

Nut Burs. — Cook one-half of a cupful of 
strained tomato and one cupful of granu- 
lated sugar to two hundred and thirty de- 
grees; add two cupsful of sugar, one-half 
of a cupful of water, and two teaspoonsful 
of butter. Let this mixture boil up once 
only; then strain. Place it in a three 
quart saucepan, return it to the fire, and 
cook to two hundred and forty-two de- 
grees. 

Take one-quarter of a cupful each of 



TOMATO 115 

preserved garden " ginger " and spiced beet, 
drain the syrup off and cut very fine; spread 
upon a wet marble. 

Over beet and *' ginger " pour the cooked 
mixture, and ''cut in." Form the mass into 
balls, flatten them slightly, roll in con- 
fectioner's sugar, and let dry. 

With a sharp knife, cut on a board 
blanched almonds, pecan, and pistachio nut 
meats into small, pointed pieces. 

This is the method of using the nuts : 
Have the nuts spread thinly upon a plate. 
Melt coating chocolate, and let it stand 
until cool. The principles laid down in 
Chapter VI, " Chocolate Coating," should 
be followed. Into the chocolate dip the 
dried balls and roll them over the nuts. 
Make sure that the nuts adhere to all parts. 
Dry upon racks. 

The brown, green and cream of the al- 
monds, pecans and pistachios against the 
dark chocolate background make a very 
attractive color scheme. The nuts may be 
used alone, however, or different combina- 
tions may be substituted. Other nuts may 
be drafted into effective service. If peanuts 
are used, be it noted, they must not be 



ii6 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

combined with any other nuts; the peanut 
flavor is overwhelming. 

See the dish at the right of the illustra- 
tion facing page Ii8, and No. 21 of the 
frontispiece. 



XVII 
CORNLETTES 

Green corn has great possibilities for the 
maker of vegetable candy. If fresh corn 
can be obtained, boil the ears in salted 
water until the kernels are tender. While 
they are still hot, with a thin, sharp knife 
cut down the center of each row. Press 
with the back of the knife down the cob 
thus freeing the pulp but leaving the skin 
upon the cob. To make certain that the 
pulp is free from skins, and of a uniform 
consistency, force it through a coarse sieve. 
Note that the corn is not to be made into 
a paste as was the potato. If canned corn 
is used, force it through a sieve. 

Boil together, until the mixture is very 
thick, one-half cupful of corn, so prepared, 
one-half cupful of granulated sugar and 
one-half cupful of coffee A sugar. The 
thermometer reading will be about two 
hundred and thirty degrees. Add one-half 
117 



ii8 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

cupful of bon-bon cream. Pour the mixture 
into a rubber mold, or, if preferred, drop 
like cream wafers upon waxed paper. If 
the mass is too thick to pour easily, add a 
few drops of hot water. The quantities 
here given will fill a mold of four-dozen 
size — the sort illustrated on page lo. 
After the drops have dried for five or six 
hours, dip them singly into a syrup cooked 
to two hundred and twenty-five degrees. 
On the next day they will be ready for 
packing. 

Nut Cornlettes. — Cornlettes are a little 
richer both in consistency and in flavor 
than the many creams to which candy 
eaters are accustomed. By the addition of 
a nut to each piece, however, cornlettes 
may be made still richer and still more dis- 
tinctive candy. 

There are three methods of adding nuts. 
The first method is to push the nut into 
each piece soon after it has been poured 
into the mold. The great advantage of 
this method is its ease and quickness. The 
confection is ready for the serving dish 
as soon as it is cool enough to leave the 
mold. A clearer and better finished ap- 



CORNLETTES 119 

pearance may be obtained by the use of the 
second method. By it, the cornlette, when 
molded, is dipped into a crystal syrup. 
A drop of the hot crystal is placed upon the 
back of the nut meat to serve as glue, and 
corn and nut are pressed together. When 
cool, the whole is dipped into the crystal. 
The third process is a compromise. The 
drop may be dipped into the crystal as soon 
as it comes from the mold, and the nut, 
either plain or dipped, may then be placed 
upon it. When the crystal sets, the union 
will be firm. 



XVIII 
ONION COLD TABLETS 

By supplying a more wholesome sort of 
confectionery, vegetable candy — at least 
in the eyes of its friends! — has decreased 
the need of household remedies for indi- 
gestion and similar ailments. On the other 
hand, the newly discovered candy-making 
brings a definite contribution to the family 
medicine chest. From onion can be made 
tablets that have the virtues assigned to 
our foremothers' cough syrups and even 
are good to eat, according to those who like 
the flavor of the onion. 

Onion cold tablets, then, are offered both 
as confectionery and as a household rem- 
edy. It should be borne in mind, however, 
that no household remedy, however good, 
or tried, takes the place of the physician. 
The family health is too precious a com- 
modity to be entrusted to unprofessional 
hands. 

To make the tablets, cut into thin slices 



ONION COLD TABLETS 121 

two ounces of raw onion — about half of 
a good sized onion, — work the onion into 
two cupsful of sugar and let the mixture 
stand for two hours. Add two-thirds of a 
cupful of cold water, place the mass on the 
fire, and let it come just to a boil. Strain 
the syrup so made into a granite sauce-pan, 
and add one teaspoonful of vinegar and 
the amount of red pepper that the point of 
a knife will hold. Place the mixture on 
the fire, and when the mass begins to boil, 
put a wooden cover over the pan. Con- 
tinue the boiling for several minutes; thor- 
oughly " steam down " the side of the pan. 
By " steaming down " the side of the pan 
is meant confining the steam which rises 
from cooking so that it will free the sides 
of the pan from the accumulation of the 
mass that is cooking. 

Remove the cover, insert a thermometer, 
and cook the mass to three hundred and 
thirty-five degrees. Thereupon stir in one 
tablespoonful of butter, remove the mass 
from the fire, add one teaspoonful of salt, 
and baking soda the size of a large pea. 
Thoroughly mix the mass, and pour it be- 
tween candy-bars on a well oiled marble 



122 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

slab. As the confection sets, mark it off 
in squares, and be sure to run the knife 
under the whole sheet to free it from the 
marble. Unless the sheet is so freed from 
the marble it will be sure to stick so that 
it can be handled only with difficulty. 
When the mass is cooled, it will easily 
break into the squares into which it has 
been marked. For preserving, pack the 
tablets in tin boxes. 

For those who do not like so much red 
pepper, the quantity may be regulated to 
suit. The amount of onion used may also 
be increased or diminished as the taste of 
the candy-maker dictates. 



XIX 
ORIENTAL PASTE 

This confection is easily made from 
purely vegetable ingredients, and has the 
pleasing consistency and flavor of the Turk- 
ish pastes. The gelatine that is used comes 
from an aquatic plant — instead of from the 
usual source. It can now be obtained in 
specialty stores and in some of the grocery 
stores of the larger cities. 

Cut one-half of an ounce of Japanese gela- 
tine into fine pieces, and pour over it two 
cupsful of warm water. Ordinary gelatine 
can not be substituted. Let it stand for 
at least two hours. The results will be 
much better if the soaking is allowed to 
take a whole night. Set this gelatine water 
on the fire and stir it until it comes to a 
boil and the gelatine is wholly dissolved. 

Mix one pound of sugar and one-half of 

a pound of glucose; into them strain the 

gelatine. Set the resulting mixture on the 

fire and cook it until it is very stringy as 

123 



124 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

it drops from the paddle. When stirring, 
scrape the bottom of the kettle well as the 
mixture sticks very easily. 

Run a half pound of figs through a 
grinder. When the gelatine mass is 
cooked, as above, remove it from the fire, 
add a few drops of oil of lemon or a tea- 
spoonful of lemon extract, and thoroughly 
mix in the figs. Dust a marble slab with 
confectioner's sugar, place candy bars in 
position, and pour the mass between them 
so as to form about one-half inch thick. 
If the candy is allowed to cool a little be- 
fore it is poured out, and is carefully 
stirred, the figs will not separate and come 
to the top. Dust the top with the sugar 
and let it remain over night. 

To finish the confection, cut it into 
squares by simply pressing the knife down 
through it. Roll the pieces in confection- 
er's sugar, and pack them in an air-tight 
box. 

Seaweed. — This gelatine called for by 
this receipt is also known as Japanese 
isinglass, agar-agar, and kanten. It is pe- 
culiar to Japan. It is made from seaweed, 
the great unused resource of the western 



ORIENTAL PASTE 125 

world. The Orient alone to any extent 
uses seaweed as a food, and, of the Orient, 
only Japan shows appreciation of its agri- 
cultural and commercial value. Kanten is 
the product of five hundred manufacturing 
plants in Japan, with an annual output of 
over three million pounds. The usual com- 
mercial gelatine is made from animal tis- 
sues — skin, Hgaments, tendons, or the ma- 
trix of bones, particularly of horns and 
hoofs. Seaweed as a source for gelatine 
appeals somewhat more to the imagina- 
tion ! 

Kanten is made from the gelidium family 
of seaweed which grows in deep water upon 
the rocks. Coolies dive for the seaweed. 
They wash and dry it by the seaside, and 
sell it at seven or eight cents a pound to the 
factories for gelatine manufacture. The 
perfect purity of kanten is proved by its 
use as a culture medium in bacteriological 
work. 

Gelidium grows on both coasts of Amer- 
ica from Canada to the Gulf. This is 
true, also, of red laver which is largely 
used as a food in Japan and unknown here. 
In Japan it is baked or toasted until crisp 



126 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

and used in sauces and soups. It is pala- 
table, and nutritious, being rich in proteids. 
Red laver is not abundant in Japan and is 
being cultivated. Sea farming is becoming 
an important industry under the supervi- 
sion of the government. The red laver beds 
are now rented out by the season to the sea 
farmers with average crop returns of one 
hundred and fifty dollars per acre. 

Kelp, also, is utilized in Japan, not alone 
for glue, sizing and iodine, but as a food — 
kombu. In this country, it is sometimes 
used to fertilize the low-lying, barren lands 
near the shore. 

In the marketing of the vegetable sea 
food known as Irish moss, New England 
comes to the fore. This is a delicious food 
product used much as corn starch for blanc- 
mange, jellies, custards, and puddings. 

In a book relating to candy-making, why 
this information concerning the unappre- 
ciated food value of seaweed? Because the 
discovery of the possibilities that cheap 
and common vegetables can well serve as 
the basis for the best candy may well be 
supplemented by the utilization of sea- 
weeds, valuable as a food, but now wasted. 



ORIENTAL PASTE 127 

In the midst of her work, the candy-cook 
may well stop to think that it is by putting 
cheap and common things to new uses that 
the race will make material progress. 



XX 

STUFFED FRUITS 

Dates for Candy. — For the basis of dates 
as candies, Fard dates are perhaps the best 
because they are generally whole with un- 
broken skins. If Persian dates are to be 
used instead, they should be of the sort 
that come packed in single layers or in 
small boxes. The skins of Persian dates 
are tender and when taken from boxes 
holding fifteen or twenty pounds are torn 
by the sharp pick used to handle them. 
When cream fillings are used, however, 
softer dates can be substituted if they are 
carefully handled. 

Sparkling Dates. — Wash, steam, pit, and 
dry. Fill them with rhubarb marmalade, 
and close them very tightly. Brush the 
whole outside surface with the unbeaten 
white of an egg, and roll the dates so coated 
in coarse granulated sugar. If Fard dates 
cannot be obtained, select as perfect Persian 
dates as possible. Fill them with rhubarb 
128 



STUFFED FRUITS 129 

jnarmalade as for the Fard dates, but do 
not use the egg coating. Simply roll in 
the sugar. 

Chocolate Covered Dates. — Proceed as 
above up to the point at which the dates 
are rolled in sugar. To make the chocolate 
confection, roll the dates in confectioner's 
sugar, instead of in the coarse granulated. 
After they have dried, coat them as usual 
with chocolate. 

Date Brilliants. — Wash, steam, and pit 
dates ; fill them with either vegetable cream 
or cream fondant. Dip them singly in a 
crystal syrup, cooked to two hundred and 
twenty-five degrees. Dry them on a rack. 
For fillings, a great variety is possible. 
Add finely chopped nuts or granulated 
cocoanut to the vegetable cream, or use 
rhubarb marmalade, tart jam, or orange 
marmalade. 

Rhubarb Marmalade. — The fillings sug- 
gested for date brilliants are all within the 
knowledge of the candy-cook, except, per- 
haps, rhubarb marmalade. As the basis for 
it, wipe clean with a damp cloth stalks of 
rhubarb. They must not be put into water. 
Peel them and cut them into very thin 



130 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

slices. Cover each pound of rhubarb with 
one and one-quarter pounds of granulated 
sugar. Let the mixture stand over night. 
In the morning, boil it for ten minutes, or 
a little longer if the rhubarb is not soft. 
Grind one-third of a pound of dried figs; 
remove the rhubarb and sugar from the 
fire; to them add the figs and stir until 
they are thoroughly mixed. Boil ten min- 
utes more. The marmalade should be put 
into glasses while hot, and sealed at once. 

Sugared Dates. — Prepare dates and fill 
as for date brilliants; dip them in syrup, 
and, while still damp, dust with granulated 
sugar. 

Stuffed Dates. — Fill with any cream or 
marmalade and roll in granulated sugar, 
dates washed, strained, steamed and pitted. 

Stuffed Prunes. — The sort of prunes that 
come in boxes are better to use than the 
ordinary ones because they are of a better 
quality, and are separated in the curing. 
Barely cover the prunes with cold water, 
and allow them to stand over night. One 
method is to pour the water off the next 
morning, pit the prunes, and use them as 
they are. If the prunes are moist and firm 



STUFFED FRUITS 131 

to begin with, the soaking is probably all 
that is necessary. Otherwise the second 
method is the one to be followed. If 
so, after the prunes have been soaked, 
place them over the fire and allow them 
to come to a boil quickly. This applica- 
tion of heat is sure to plump out prunes 
that have become dry, or have been over- 
cured. The difficulty, however, is that 
there is danger that the juice will be 
started, and much of it lost, and that the 
skins may be broken. The second method 
will destroy the raw taste to which some 
persons object. 

No matter which method has been fol- 
lowed, fill each prune with tart jam, orange 
marmalade, rhubarb marmalade, or with po- 
tato fondant, cooked or uncooked, with or 
without the addition of nuts. To finish, 
coat each prune with the unbeaten white of 
an egg, and roll in granulated sugar. If 
it is desired, they can be rolled in confec- 
tioner's sugar, dried and coated with choco- 
late. 



XXI 
ANGELIQUE 

Rings. — Angelique is a vegetable that is 
of the greatest use as an accessory in the 
making of many sorts of vegetable candy. 
That fact, however, should not obscure the 
equally important fact that its flavor is ex- 
cellent and that it may well be used as a 
base. Rings made from it are very good if 
filled with any one of the four mixtures de- 
scribed below. And, as the reader will see 
by looking at No. 15 of the frontispiece, 
they are good to look upon. 

As a beginning, no matter what filling is 
to be chosen, cut crystallized angelique 
cross-wise into sections a quarter of an inch 
wide. If these sections are flattened by 
packing or cutting, separate the sides so 
that they form circles, the more nearly per- 
fect the better. 

The fillings may be either potato fondant, 
plain or colored, and flavored to taste; po- 
tato fondant with chopped nuts worked into 
132 




Angelica Archangelica 



ANGELIQUE 133 

it; equal parts of potato fondant and alm- 
ond paste; or rhubarb marmalade, with 
confectioner's sugar worked into it if it 
appears too moist. 

When the fillings are in place, each ring 
should be dipped separately into a crystal, 
cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees, 
and then should be allowed to drain on a 
wire rack. The next day the process 
should be repeated. When the rings have 
become thoroughly dry, they will be found 
very useful for almost any sort of serving 
or packing. The outside is firm, and the 
centers soft. 

Orange Rings. — Rings made from candied 
orange peel may be treated similarly. Cut 
the peel into rings by using one-half and 
one quarter inch cutters. Thereafter both 
process and fillings are the same. An in- 
teresting combination can be made by ar- 
ranging three small orange rings in a 
cluster, and holding them in position by 
the syrup. In addition to the filling, a 
pignolia nut may be placed in each ring. 

See No. 19 of the frontispiece. 

Angelique as a Plant. — Angelique or 
angelica is so called because in early centu- 



134 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

ries it was thought to be a specific for 
poison and pestilence. It is an aromatic 
garden herb, of an order of plants of the 
cohort umbelliferae, known popularly as 
the parsley family. The order is one of 
strongly marked properties. Some of its 
members contain an aromatic oil and fur- 
nish condiments — as anise, dill, caraway, 
and coriander. From another group these 
qualities are nearly absent and the stem 
and leaf are edible — as in celery, angelique 
and parsley; or the root — as in carrot and 
parsnip. 

Angelique is native to many temperate 
parts of Europe and America. It grows on 
river banks and in other damp places. It 
is easily cultivated and often grows to the 
height of six feet. Its seeds may be sown 
in the autumn as soon as they are ripe, or 
they may be planted in the spring. Angel- 
ique develops a plant much like celery. It 
is blanched and eaten the same way. The 
stalk is used commercially when crystallized 
or candied. It is green in color and pleas- 
ingly pungent in flavor, and lends itself in 
many ways to the use of the candy-maker. 
It comes generally in strips six or seven 



ANGELIQUE 135 

inches long and is cut according to the 
special directions for the different candies. 

Angelique is so easy to raise and is of 
such value that two methods of handling 
it when home grown are given below. 
Why so many candy-makers with gardens 
continue to buy it when it can be cultivated 
so easily is a mystery. 

Preserved Green Angelique. — Select an- 
gelique that is fresh, young, crisp, and as 
tender as possible. Cut the stalks into six 
inch lengths; wash them thoroughly. Boil 
them in water for ten minutes, and drain 
them. Thereupon, boil them in a syrup 
for half an hour. Let them cool in the 
syrup. Store in wide-mouthed bottles or 
jars. 

Dried Angelique. — Prepare the angelique 
as before. Cut the stalks into strips, loz- 
enges, or large and small rings. Boil them 
in the syrup three or four times — as was 
directed before. After draining, roll each 
piece in powdered sugar. Dry them thor- 
oughly on a screen, and store carefully. 



XXII 
FOR THE CATERER 

Vegetable candy opens up a new field for 
the caterer. It furnishes him material that 
is not only cheaper but better than that 
with which he has been accustomed to 
work. Not only are the results better, but 
they are achieved by the expenditure of 
much less effort. Potato fondant can be 
made to assume clear outlines without the 
hour after hour beating required by the 
traditional French methods. Moreover, 
the caterer's customers can have the satis- 
faction of knowing that the pretty things 
that they are buying are not made with the 
help of plaster of Paris or other ingredients 
of which the less there is said the better ! 

The caterer should take particular note 
of the illustration facing page 138. It will 
suggest many of the uses to which the new 
mediums can be put. The caterer, also, 
should read with particular care the chap- 
ter relating to decorative candy. Chap- 
136 



FOR THE CATERER 137 

ter and illustration together will furnish 
him with ideas as to how he can make use 
of this discovery in his own profession. Of 
course, for success, absolute familiarity 
with the processes of vegetable candy-makr 
ing is essential. 

There are a few definite points v^^hich 
should be borne in mind, however, hy the 
person who wishes to use vegetable candy 
in catering. Flowers can be wired and 
used as bouquets. As will be seen from the 
illustration facing the next page, to hold 
candles for use on birthday cakes there is no 
need to use the objectionable wire cups. 
Smaller flower cups made from potato fon- 
dant can be substituted. An excellent 
method is to use them in the border. 
There, they are not only useful but highly 
decorative. Nor need there be used cups 
made from starch, plaster of Paris, or other 
inedible mixtures. 

The possibilities of using potato fondant 
as the base for fancy cups to hold ice 
creams and ices are unlimited. For in- 
stance, the fondant can be molded into cups 
of conventionalized flower designs. The 
caterer should remember that these cups 



138 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

should be dipped one or more times in a 
crystal syrup. This will not only make 
them resemble somewhat the ever popular 
spun sugar, but will tend to make them im- 
pervious to the melting ices or creams. As 
a result, the fondant itself will retain its 
crispness. A similar use is for novel con- 
tainers for salted almonds and nut meats. 
One great advantage of the use of ob- 
jects made from vegetable candy is that 
they may very easily be made to follow the 
color schemes used at luncheons or dinners. 
The color may be very easily applied to 
the exterior or may be worked into the 
mass itself before it is molded. Just how 
these operations should be followed will 
readily be seen by re-reading Chapter VIII, 
division III, 

"DECORATIVE CANDIES FROM PO- 
TATO FONDANT." 

: For instance, if pink is the color for the 
luncheon, wild roses easily suggest them- 
selves as promising decorations. The form 
of. the wild rose lends itself readily to cups, 
— ^'ihe larger ones for ices and the smaller 
fof*nuts. If the function is a birthday, wild 



FOR THE CATERER 139 

roses may well be used for candle cups on 
cakes. If not a birthday, and decorative 
icing is desired for large or small cakes, 
nothing could be prettier than the roses. 
They can be used either as a border of con- 
ventional regularity around a large cake or 
in the center of small, round cakes covered 
v^ith white icing. As a flower decoration, 
candy wild roses can be placed in a vase in 
the middle of the table. To carry the place 
cards, there may be a butterfly alighting 
upon each rose cup holding nuts. These 
butterflies can be made of vegetable candy, 
water color paper, or bolting cloth; what- 
ever their material, they must be wired, or 
glued, with a few drops of crystal syrup, to 
the edge of the rose. 

If, however, the luncheon is to be violet, 
other decorations can be used. The center 
piece may be a large bunch of popcorn 
violets. At each plate there may be 
French baskets, made from potato fondant 
colored pale violet, filled with cocoanut vio- 
lets. To give the idea that the baskets 
have just come from the florist's, to each 
there may well be tied a card bearing the 
name of the guest. In this instance, it 



140 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

would be well for the ice to be served in a 
fondant basket and capped with a few vio- 
lets. 

The caterer will readily see that vegeta- 
ble candy offers itself in countless ways in 
connection with place cards. The new 
candy can not only be used as the holder 
for daintily designed cards, but the de- 
sign itself may be painted directly upon 
the object modeled from potato fondant 
or potato paste. The first method is likely 
to be rather more easy in its process and 
attractive in its results, on the whole, 
but the second has the distinction 
of novelty. It surely is an interesting 
thing for the guests to be able to eat their 
place cards, decoration, design, and all! 

For Easter, yellow is a particularly good 
color. For ices, cups and cases can be made 
of white and yellow fondant modeled in 
the form of jonquils or daffodils. Carrot 
rings, served with the salad course, would 
add a touch of variety. As is suggested 
in the chapter concerning decorative can- 
dies, potato fondant can be made to serve 
the table decorator especially well for spe- 
cial times and functions. Insignia can eas- 



FOR THE CATERER 141 

ily be formed of fondant, either as separate 
forms to be wired and used as place cards 
or as place cards attached to the little cases 
— paper or fondant. A Masonic dinner, for 
instance, would use the square and compass 
in different ways, and one for the Odd Fel- 
lows would make use of their three links. 
For college banquets, the appropriate Greek 
letter insignia could be used. In this case, 
however, the caterer must make sure that 
he is not violating any of the rules of the 
societies to which his guests belong. 

For any decoration that is flat instead of 
modeled, the potato paste can be substi- 
tuted for the potato fondant. Thus, in the 
case last cited above, many of the insignia 
can be cut from paste more easily than they 
can be modeled from fondant. A tinsmith 
can easily make a cutter that will save 
time if a number of the same design are 
desired. 

The paste can be used with the fondant, 
either in the same object or separately for 
the same occasion. 

Vegetable candy can be made by the 
skillful amateur as readily as by the manu- 
facturer. No large plant or complicated 



142 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

machinery is required. As a result, the girl 
or woman with a skill that is great, but a 
bank account that is small, may find vege- 
table candy the road to a profitable catering 
trade. If in a small town, she can — if she 
is sufficiently skillful — fashion decorations 
for food that will rival the products of the 
art of the city caterer. Moreover, inas- 
much as she is put to comparatively little 
expense, and is using comparatively cheap 
ingredients, she can undersell her urban 
competitor. And her fellow townswomen 
who buy her wares will have the distinct 
satisfaction of knowing that her product is 
free from harmful ingredients. 



XXIII 
FOR THE TEACHER 

The discovery of vegetable candy has 
been of great pedagogic value. Teachers 
of household arts and all art are beginning 
to find that the new bases are of great serv- 
ice to them in their class work. Before 
this discovery, there was no medium which 
was of use for both cooking and the model- 
ing classes. Now cooking classes and mod- 
eling classes can be correlated in such a 
way that much is promised both. 

The processes in the making of potato 
fondant and potato paste illustrate funda- 
mental principles in domestic science. 
With the exercise of a little care on the 
part of the teacher, their making can be as 
simple and educationally valuable as the 
traditional first lesson in peppermint drops. 
In the fashioning of these new candies, 
however, there is more incentive to the 
child than there was in the cooking of the 
old-fashioned confection, no matter how de- 
143 



144 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

lectable it might be. But the pedagogic 
value of vegetable candy does not fall 
wholly within the field of household arts. 
As has been explained in the chapter con- 
cerning decorative candy, potato fondant 
and paste are the basis of very attractive 
objects. Their fashioning, obviously, can be 
made to teach principles of line, design 
and color. Is it not safe to say that no 
other modeling medium — edible or inedi- 
ble — possesses this threefold recommenda- 
tion? Fondant or paste can be colored by 
painting directly upon the finished surfaces, 
or the coloring matter can be worked into 
the mass. In either case, there is a pleas- 
ing relief from the gray or green of clay 
and its preparations. Now the child can 
model in natural colors what he sees on his 
nature study rambles. Now he can make 
roses in their natural colorings and shad- 
ings, and buds that are not wholly a dull, 
dead green ! Moreover, potato fondant can 
be modeled so as to have clearer outlines 
than clay. There are two disadvantages, 
however, which should be stated: first, po- 
tato fondant must be handled with mod- 
erate quickness in order to give the best 



FOR THE TEACHER 145 

results, and, second, it is so good that there 
is danger that the pupil will prematurely 
eat his lesson! 

Because the finished product is good to 
eat as well as to look upon, potato fondant 
as a modeling medium adds to the teacher's 
resources another incentive for the child. 
In work with defective children, it has been 
found, again and again, that the more 
senses to which appeal can be made, the 
better. Do not the same principles apply- 
to the normal child, although with some- 
what lessened force? In art work with 
vegetable candy, sight and touch are not 
the only senses in operation; taste and 
smell are in full play. 

Often, teachers of both art and house- 
hold arts are perplexed when it comes time 
for the annual schood exhibition. " What 
can we do,'* they ask, "that will be prop- 
erly illustrative of our work and, at the 
same time, of appeal to the popular imagi- 
nation?" It is hoped that vegetable candy 
offers an answer to this question. Its nov- 
elty and hygienic value are such that par- 
ents of the children are interested in it. 
Moreover, the unusual interest of the chil- 



146 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED 

dren themselves has been known to react 
upon the parents. 

Suggestions for the details of working 
out the school use of vegetable candy will 
be found in the pages which precede. The 
teachers should read with particular care 
the chapter which refers to decorative 
candy, and particularly the division relating 
to modeling. They will find many hints as 
to how it can be successfully applied to 
their own school work. 



THE END 



INDEX 



INDEX 

Abel, Mrs. Mary H., on value of sugar in diet, 48. 

Accuracy, necessity for, 3. 

Almonds, Celtic, 86. 

Angelique, dried, 135; preserved green, 135; plant, 

133; rings, 132. 
Apples, red, as decorative candies, 70. 

Bars, for forming masses, 14-15. 

Bars, chocolate, 87. 

"Ball," ''hard," 19, 22; "soft," 19, 22. 

Bean, 102-104; bean taffy, 103; candied green beans, 

102; nut bean taffy, 104; pulled taffy, 104. 
Beet, 105-109; beet cubes, 107; beet puffs, 106; 

crystallized beets, 108; frosted beet slice, 105; 

spiced beets, 109; spiced beet bon bons, 109. 
Boiler, use of double, 24, 25. 
Bon bons, spiced beet, 109. 
Bon bon dipper, 8. 

Boutonnieres, parsnip, 95-96; violet, 59-60. 
Brilliants, date, 129; date, with rhubarb marmalade, 

130. 
Burs, nut, 114. 

Calla lily, as decorative candy, 69. 

Caramel, opera, 83; potato, 80-83, 

Carrot, 97-101; crystallized, 98; garden "ginger," 99; 
rings, 97; rolls, 98. 

Caterer, the, 136-142; coloring for, 138; cups, 137; 
decorations, 139, 140; flowers, 137; potato fon- 
dant for, 136. 

Celtic almonds, 86. 

Chocolate, bars, 87; coating, 36-40; covered dates, 
129; in crystallization, 27; marshmallow, 112; 
nougatines, 114; peppermints, 86. 

Child, the, craving for sweets of, vii, viii ; sugar for, 

viii, 47-51; Mrs. Mary Hinman Abel on, 48. 

149 



ISO INDEX 

Cleanliness, necessity for, 4. 

Climatic conditions, in candy making, 4; in chocolate 

coating, 35, 36. 
Cocoanut violets, 58. 
Cold tablets, onion, 120. 
Cornlettes, 117; nut, 118. 
Corn starch, for drying, 18. 
"Crack," 19, 22. 

Creams, pecan, 85; raisin, 85; vegetable, 88. 
Crystallization, 27-32; beets, 108; chocolate in, 27; 

crystal syrup, 28, 29; French hand, 30; basis for 

parsnip candy, 93; sugar, 2S. 
Crystallized beets, 108. 
Crystal syrup, 28, 29. 

Dates, candy, 128; chocolate covered, 129; date bril- 
liants, 129; rhubarb marmalade for, 130; spar- 
kling dates, 128; stuffed dates, 130; sugared, 130. 

Decorative candies, 52-79; from potato paste, 52-57 
green leaves, 56 ; potato paste, 5S ; violets, 57 
61; cocoanut violets, 58; popcorn violets, 57 
violet boutonnieres, 59, 60; from potato fon 
dant, 61-79; calla lily, 69; coloring for, 64-66 
cooked potato fondant, 62; daisy, white, 66 
daisy, yellow, 69; grapes, 77; modeled candy, 
62 ; new potato, 75 ; parsnip boutonniere, 95 ; pea 
pod, 76; red apples, 70; rose buds, 74; single 
rose, 72 ; snow balls, 76 ; uncooked potato fon- 
dant, 61 ; white daisy, 66 ; yellow daisy, 69. 

Degrees, on candy thermometer, 22. 

Dishes, white enamel best, 12. 

Dipper, bon bon, 8. 

Double boiler, use of, 24, 25. 

Dropping funnel, 11. 

Fondant, potato, decorative candies from, 61-79; 
calla lily, 69; coloring for, 64-66; cooked potato 
fondant, 62; daisy, white, 66; daisy, yellow, 69; 
grapes, 77; modeled candy, 62; new potato, 75; 
parsnip boutonniere, 95 ; pea pod, 76 ; red apples, 
70; rose buds, 74; single rose, 72; snow balls. 



INDEX 151 

Fondant. — Continued. 

76; uncooked potato fondant, 61; white daisy, 
66; yellow daisy, 69. 

Frosted beet slice, 105. 

Funnel, dropping, 11. 

Fruits, stuffed, 128- 131; dates, 128; dates, chocolate 
covered, 129; date brilliants, 129; rhubarb mar- 
malade for, 129; dates, stuffed, 130; dates, sug- 
ared, 130; stuffed prunes, 130. 

Garden "ginger," 99. 

Gelidium, 125. 

"Ginger," garden, 99. 

Glucose, 46. 

Grapes, in decorative candy, 'jy. 

Green leaves, in decorative candy, 56. 

"Hard ball," 19, 22. 
"Hard crack," 19, 22. 
Hook, taffy, 13. 

Irish moss, 1^6. 

Kanten, 125. 

Kelp, 126. 

Knife, special, 12, 13; for cutting in, 14; palette, 55. 

Knots, sweet potato, 91. 

Marshmallow, chocolate, 112; tomato, no. 

Mat, rubber, 9. 

Mocha walnuts, 84. 

Modeled candy, 62-64. 

Modeling stick, 16. 

Moss, Irish, 126. 

Netting, wire, used in draining fruits, 5, 17. 
Nougatines, chocolate, 114; vegetable, 112. 
Novice, help for the, yT' 
Nut burs, 114. 
Nut cornlettes, 118. 



i$2 INDEX 

Onion cold tablets, 12a 
Orange rings, 133. 
Oriental paste, 123. 

Packing, of candies, 6. 

Parsnip, 93-96; boutonnieres, 95-96; candied, 93-95. 

Paste, oriental, 123 ; potato, 52 ; potato, use by teach- 
ers, 143. 

Pastilles, sweet potato, 92. 

Patties, sweet potato, 90. 

Pea pods, in decorative candies, 76. 

Pecan creams, 85. 

Peppermint chocolates, 86. 

Popcorn violets, 57. 

Potato, new, in decorative candy, 75; caramels, 80- 
83 ; Celtic almonds, 86 ; chocolate bars, 87 ; mocha 
walnuts, 84 ; pecan creams, 85 ; peppermint choc- 
olates, 86; raisin creams, 85; sweet potato, 90- 
92 ; knots, 91 ; pastilles, 92 ; patties, 90. 

Potato fondant, decorative candies from, 61-79; 
cooked, 62; uncooked, 61; modeled candy from, 
62 ; coloring for, 64-66 ; calla lily, 69 ; daisy, 
white, 66; daisy, yellow, 69; grapes, 77; modeled 
candy 62; new potato, 75; parsnip boutonniere, 
95; pea pod, 76; red apples, 70; rose buds, 74; 
single rose, 72; snow balls, 76; white daisy, 66; 
yellow daisy, 69. 

Potato paste, 52. 

Prunes, stuffed, 130. 

Pulling taffy, 6, 7. 

Racks, for drying, 17. 
Raisin creams, 85. 
Red apples, in decorative candy, 70. 
Rings, angelique, 132; carrot, 97; orange, 133. 
Rose, buds, as decorative candy, 74; single, as 
decorative candy, 72. 

Scale, thermometer, 22. 
Screens, 17. 



INDEX 153 

Sea weed, as food, 124; gelidium, 125; Irish moss, 
126; kanten, 125; kelp, 126. 

Snow balls, in decorative candy, 'jd. 

Soap stone, used as working slab, 5. 

Sparkling dates, 128. 

Spiced beets, 109. 

Spiced beet bon bons, 109. 

Steam, candy making, 24-26; double boiler, use of, 
24, 25; steaming, 24; steam bath, 25. 

Stuffed fruits, 128-131; dates, 128; dates, chocolate 
covered, 129; date brilliants, 129: rhubarb mar- 
malade for, 129; dates, stuffed, 130; dates, sug- 
ared, 130; stuffed prunes, 130. 

Sugar 41-51; for children, 47-51; for crystallization, 
28; glucose, 46; rolling candies in, 5, 6; value 
of, 41-43; varieties of, 44. 

Sugared dates, 130. 

Sweet potato, knots, 91 ; pastilles, 92 ; patties, 90. 

Sweets, necessity of, i, ii, viii. 

Tablets, onion cold, 120. 

Taffy, bean, 103; nut bean, 104; pulling, 6, 7. 

Taffy hook, 13. 

Teacher, the, 143-146; potato paste or fondant as 

medium for, 144. 
Thermometer, 19-23; scales, 22; "crack," 19, 22; 

"hard ball," 19, 22; "hard crack," 19, 22; "soft 

ball," 19, 22; "thread," 19, 22. 
"Thread," 19, 22. 
Tomato, no- 116; chocolate marshmallow, 112; 

chocolate nougatine, 114; nut burs, 114; tomato 

marshmallow, no; vegetable nougatine, 112. 

Utensils, bars, forming, 14, 15; bonbon dippers, 8; 
dropping funnel, 11; knife, for cutting in, 14; 
knife, palette, 55 ; knife, special, 12, 13 ; model- 
ing stick, 17; rubber mat, 9; screens, 17; taffy 
hook, 13; wooden spoon and paddle, 12. 

Vegetable candy, keeping quality of, ii; modeling 
medium, iv; sociological value of, iv. 



154 INDEX 

Vegetable creams, 88. 
Vegetable nougatines, 112. 

Violets, 57-61; boutonnieres, 59, 60; cocoanut, 58; 
popcorn, 57. 

Walnuts, mocha, 84. 

Weather, influence on candy making, 4, 35. 
White daisy, as decorative candy, 66. 
Working slab, soapstone used as, 5. 
Wooden utensils, spoon and paddle, 12. 

Yellow daisy, as decorative candy, 66. 



JAN 17 1913 



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